Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Beacon Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
3rd Rail, The T 
Bears in Heat T 
Blood, Sweat, and Smears T 
Blownout T 
Borderline T,S 
Couchmaster T 
Cruisin' T 
Dorian's Dilemma T 
Excalibur T,S 
Fear of Flying T 
Fireballs T 
Flying Dutchman T 
Flying Swallow T 
Free for All T 
Free For All, Direct T 
Free for Some T 
Fresh Squeeze T 
Gitmo Love Machine T 
Head Case T,S 
Jill's Thrill T 
Link-up: Free for All/Dod's Jam/Dastardly Crack T 
Little Wing T 
Lost Warriors T 
Norseman, The S 
Old Warriors Never Die S 
Pioneer (Spike) Route T 
Pipeline T 
Right Gull T 
Rise Up T 
Siege Tactics T 
Sky Fishermen (free variation of Grunge Book) T,S 
South East Corner T 
Stone Rodeo S 
Wild Turkeys T 
Windsurfer T 
Windwalker T 
Winter Delight T,S 
Young Warriors T 

Blownout 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 220'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jeff Thomas and Ken Currens, 1976
Season: fall
Page Views: 2,352
Submitted By: Thomas d'Aquin on Jul 3, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Daryl following pitch 3, the crux pitch.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Beautiful long perfect dihedral after some interesting face work. P1, climb Blownout direct 5.9 (hard/technical for 5.9) start just uphill from tunnel #1, thin flake, then seam and right-facing thin flake w 2 or 3 pitons to bolted belay. P2, Up and left then up hand crack to belay "in a protected corner beneath the great upper dihedral." P3. 120 feet of dihedral. Stems, chimney moves, lieback, all you ever wanted from a 5.10A dihedral!!

Location 

Start up hill from tunnel 1 at the base of a piller

Protection 

Gear to 2.5"


Photos of Blownout Slideshow Add Photo
2nd pitch of Blownout
2nd pitch of Blownout
1st pitch of Blownout
1st pitch of Blownout
me starting the money 3rd dihedral pitch
me starting the money 3rd dihedral pitch
From the top of Blownout on a very smokey day in t...
From the top of Blownout on a very smokey day in t...

Comments on Blownout Add Comment
Show which comments
By Billcoe
Jul 3, 2011

You list the first ascentionists incorrectly as Jeff Thomas and Ken Currens, 1976.

I think that it was Steve Strauch and Danny Gates who did the FA. Bear with me as I'll most likely screw up the tale of the FA. The story is that they went out New Years Day during the start of one of those shitty assed ice storm's the gorge is known for in winter. Feeling lucky to have survived the drive out to the rock as the storm is ramping up, they decide to climb anyway, feeling that climbing in the worst weather imaginable would be more survivable than the drive back in the worst weather imaginable. It takes them 2 days to get up the route which is fully iced. They do it with pitons on aid, and it takes another full day to get back to town as the silver thaw hasn't abated, down the same curvy and hilly SR 14 which they had felt lucky to have survived the first time and which is still covered in ice. I suspect that what you have is the first "free" ascentionists listed above, not the first ascentionists. Jeff Thomas is still around (he wrote some of the best damn guidebooks in the US back then for this area). He is a stickler for perfection and maybe he'll weigh in the the corrected version of this story as I probably don't have it right either:-) But that's the version Steve Strauch told me.

Very good route, 2 starts...you might discuss them both and mention the poison oak as well.
By Colin Parker
Administrator
From: Idyllwild, CA
Jul 28, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Thanks Bill.

The poison oak he refers to is situated on small ledges on the Blownout Direct start. It is also growing out of the cracks to the left of Blownout Direct. While you may be able to avoid climbing in the poison oak, it will be very difficult to pull your rope without having it land in or brush some of it. Just a heads up.
By peachy spohn
Jul 28, 2013
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

No poison oak noticed as of 07/27/2013! Get on it! Have fun!
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Portland, OR
Aug 23, 2013

Climbed the first pitch today, as all the other nearby routes are teeming with grass and debris, including Sufficiently Breathless, which gets two stars in Olson's guide. Although the "direct" first pitch doesn't get any stars, it's definitely at least as good as SB even if it were clean - it's hard to see any consistent gear placements on SB.

That said, it's a decent pitch with semi-tricky gear at the crux. That poor Alien is going to be there for awhile. I used a #1 mastercam in a tiny pod above the second piton and was able to pull the crux with it at my waist.

From the stance above this seam, there are no bolted anchors to your left, and the stance is a little small for a comfortable belay and transfer. Although I didn't do it, I would highly recommend continuing up the 5.9 crack directly above to the alcove at the base of the 120" dihedral. Otherwise, there are two fat bolts up and to the right, around an awkward step. This is the anchor for routes like Winter Delight.

I have upgraded the route to 10b, because although Olson's guide lists it as 10a, it's 120' of consistent 10a with a crux at the top. Described to me as "definitely harder than any of those 10's in the lower gorge" at Smith.
By Steve Wolford
Aug 25, 2013

Blownout Direct is currently the best approach for Blownout. There is poison oak to either side, but not on the route.
The 2nd pitch of Blownout is only 95 feet long, not 120, you can lower off from the top anchors back to the belay with a 60 meter. One of the bolts at the midpoint anchor(the one on the right) appears to be compromised, as it moves when weighted.
By the professor
Sep 21, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Blownout is the hallmark 5.10a route at Beacon. If one STEMS the third pitch, then 5.10a is valid (there are numerous no-hands stem rests) . If one purely JAMS a la Indian Creek it is harder.
By George Zack
From: Portland, OR
Jul 20, 2015

First time on this yesterday. Clean, steep, and quite sustained. A classic route. Did in two pitches starting up Blownout Direct. Encountered a tiny bit of poison oak 20' off the ground, but it is easily avoidable.

The upper crack of the first pitch is sustained and cruxy jamming. Most of the awesome dihedral on the second pitch felt sub-5.10 to me, probably cuz you get so many secure rests between moves when you are jammed/chimneyed in there. Cruxes definately came at the top for me: first a desperate lieback finger-crack, then a no hands rest, then one last hard/awkward throw to a jug just under the anchors that will probably feel like the hardest move for the height-challenged such as myself.

Recommended rack: Set of nuts (including a set of offsets), single .3 cam, doubles in .4-2, single 3.
By Matt Baker
From: Portland, OR
Jul 21, 2015

What a stellar route. Didn't do much stemming since I get tunnel vision on cracks, what a nice continuous jam crack!!! Definitely will get on this again
By George Zack
From: Portland, OR
4 days ago

Checked the three pins on the first pitch the other day. The upper two seem to be bomber, but the first is questionable (it is driven in fractured/loose rock). I also removed the fixed alien between the first and second pin, giving you now a couple of options for small gear in that area to back up the pins.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!