From the Washington State Park's Page [www.parks.wa.gov/474/Beacon-Rock]: Beacon Rock offers excellent opportunities for rock climbing, and is considered to be some of the very best "Traditional Climbing" in the northwest. Climbers do need to be aware of where and when they climb due to management restrictions. Only the NW corner is open to climbing year round. The east face is closed year round due to environmental sensitivity. The rest of Beacon Rock is closed to rock climbing from February 1 to mid July annually to protect sensitive wildlife habitat. Call the park at (509) 427-8265 for more information.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Beautiful long perfect dihedral after some interesting face work. P1, climb Blownout direct 5.9 (hard/technical for 5.9) start just uphill from tunnel #1, thin flake, then seam and right-facing thin flake w 2 or 3 pitons to bolted belay. P2, Up and left then up hand crack to belay "in a protected corner beneath the great upper dihedral." P3. 120 feet of dihedral. Stems, chimney moves, lieback, all you ever wanted from a 5.10A dihedral!!
Start up hill from tunnel 1 at the base of a piller
You list the first ascentionists incorrectly as Jeff Thomas and Ken Currens, 1976.
It was Steve Strauch and Danny Gates who did the FA. Bear with me as I'll most likely screw up the tale of the FA. The story is that they went out New Years during the start of one of those shitty assed ice storm's the gorge is known for in winter. Feeling lucky to have survived the drive as the storm is ramping up, they decide to climb anyway, feeling that climbing in the worst weather imaginable would be more survivable than the drive back in the worst weather imaginable. It takes them 2 days to get up the route which is fully iced. They do it with pitons on aid, and it takes another full day to get back to town as the silver thaw hasn't abated, down the same curvy and hilly SR 14 which they had felt lucky to have survived the first time and which is still covered in ice. I suspect that what you have is the first "free" ascentionists noted above, not the first ascentionists. Jeff Thomas is still around, and wrote some of the best damn guidebooks in the US back then for this area. He is a stickler for perfection and maybe he'll weigh in the the corrected version of this story.
Good route, 2 starts...you might discuss them both and mention the poison oak as well.
By Colin Parker Administrator From: Idyllwild, CA Jul 28, 2013 rating: 5.10b6a+19VII-19E2 5b
The poison oak he refers to is situated on small ledges on the Blownout Direct start. It is also growing out of the cracks to the left of Blownout Direct. While you may be able to avoid climbing in the poison oak, it will be very difficult to pull your rope without having it land in or brush some of it. Just a heads up.
No poison oak noticed as of 07/27/2013! Get on it! Have fun!
By Nate Ball Administrator From: Taipei, TW Aug 23, 2013
Climbed the first pitch today, as all the other nearby routes are teeming with grass and debris, including Sufficiently Breathless, which gets two stars in Olson's guide. Although the "direct" first pitch doesn't get any stars, it's definitely at least as good as SB even if it were clean - it's hard to see any consistent gear placements on SB.
That said, it's a decent pitch with semi-tricky gear at the crux. That poor Alien is going to be there for awhile. I used a #1 mastercam in a tiny pod above the second piton and was able to pull the crux with it at my waist.
From the stance above this seam, there are no bolted anchors to your left, and the stance is a little small for a comfortable belay and transfer. Although I didn't do it, I would highly recommend continuing up the 5.9 crack directly above to the alcove at the base of the 120" dihedral. Otherwise, there are two fat bolts up and to the right, around an awkward step. This is the anchor for routes like Winter Delight.
I have upgraded the route to 10b, because although Olson's guide lists it as 10a, it's 120' of consistent 10a with a crux at the top. Described to me as "definitely harder than any of those 10's in the lower gorge" at Smith.
Blownout Direct is currently the best approach for Blownout. There is poison oak to either side, but not on the route. The 2nd pitch of Blownout is only 95 feet long, not 120, you can lower off from the top anchors back to the belay with a 60 meter. One of the bolts at the midpoint anchor(the one on the right) appears to be compromised, as it moves when weighted.