Climb a shallow, right-facing corner (protect with a #2 Camalot) and stand up on a flake. Climb up left (5.7 move) past a bolt. Continue up left to another bolt and then climb directly up the face above to a tricky finish. Belay from bolts on a shelf left of the prominent, quarried slice.
This is the route that finishes just to the left of the 2 big cuts on the Whale. Start just right of the big ponderosa pine. Rappel with double ropes or a 200 foot (60 meter) rope which reaches some foothold (with rope stretch) a few feet off the ground.
5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Bring #2 Camalot also for protection in the first corner.
Sadie stepping out of the dihedral.
Photo by Mich...
Sadie on the upper part of Blow Tube Envy.
|By Anna Moore|
Jul 15, 2006
We climbed this today, definitely should be a morning climb, cause it got pretty toasty on the slab going up around noon. Also, we kinda suspect some flaking off at the part you should be able to cam in at. Reason being we couldn't get our cam to stick, maybe it should be checked out just to be sure, then if a bigger cam should be recommended, someone can recommend it.
|By Joshua Balke|
From: Colorado Springs
Aug 24, 2006
When I climbed this, I didn't find any need for the cam, but then again I have long arms to reach out for the first bolt. The top is definitely tricky and commiting. The moves scared me much more that the crux.
Mar 24, 2008
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c
We used a 60m rope and had no problems at all. I'd tie a knot in the end just to be sure the belayer doesn't let it through the belay device. I also had no problem getting a #2 Cam in. FYI this route is a little harder than the rest of the 5.7s in the RROS. It's not hard but compared to some of the other 5.7s on the Whale, it is harder, I'd give it a RROS 5.8-.
|By Michael West|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 8, 2008
I didn't think you needed a cam. Some of the top moves are scary.
Sep 30, 2008
Seemed like the pro below the first bolt was definitely optional. I am a shorter climber (5'2") and found getting out on the slab at the first bolt much harder than 5.7. Maybe I wasn't on route, but that part was tricky.
|By Mike McMahon|
From: Vernal, Utah
Aug 3, 2009
I clipped the first bolt of Mr. MIA and then traversed to the first bolt of this route.... This variation seemed a bit more difficult than 5.7....
|By Bill Olszewski|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 30, 2010
Led this entirely on the face. Was going to clip the first bolt of Mr. MIA, but I didn't like how the traverse looked, so I just went straight up. Tied off the bush and continued to the first bolt. Felt maybe 5.9. I wish the FA team had bolted it this way as the corner system is really just 4th class, maybe very low 5th.
|By Mark Derham|
From: Lakewood, CO
Dec 4, 2013
There is an important flake that is flexing heavily and close to breaking just past the final bolt. Don't pull too hard or it will come off the wall along with you!