Blotto AKA Axis  5.10d

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet Consensus:  5.10d [details] FA:  Henry Barber, Ajax Greene, 5/1975 Submitted By:  Alexey on Feb 18, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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2012 Closures MORE INFO >>> Yearly raptor closures typically begin March 1 and remain in effect until August 1, or until further notice. As of March 1, 2012: Lower Merced River Gorge. Closure includes all routes with the following exception: routes west of and including "Later" and northeast of and including "Juliette's Flake" remain open. See the following website for more info: www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbingclosures.htm This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

The route mostly right facing flake with different jamming. Boldery start on left from pedestal and easier start on right to establish in the crack. Than layback over small rooflet and than strangely strenuous overhanging hands and thin hands to the last roof. There are a big distance between tight hands jams at the crux, so work with your feet and body position to reach them.
In the end of the roof fixed gear and slings allowed you to be lowered with 70 m rope. The other choice - continue traverse (~10-15 feet) right to to bolts anckor ( presumably crux of the route, but I did not tried )

Location 

Next to Entrance Exam ( right)

Protection 

3x 0.5" to 2", 2#3 , one 3.5" 70m rope