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4 - Arch Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anticipation T 
Application T 
Bin, The T 
Blotto AKA Axis T 
Dirty Little Secret T 
English Breakfast Crack T 
Entrance Exam T 
Goldilocks T 
Gripper T 
Leanie Meanie T 
Midterm T 
New Dimensions T 
Principle, The S 
Sidetrack T 
Supplication T 

Blotto AKA Axis 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Henry Barber, Ajax Greene, 5/1975
Page Views: 949
Submitted By: Alexey on Feb 18, 2010

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


The route mostly right facing flake with different jamming. Boldery start on left from pedestal and easier start on right to establish in the crack. Than layback over small rooflet and than strangely strenuous overhanging hands and thin hands to the last roof. There are a big distance between tight hands jams at the crux, so work with your feet and body position to reach them.
In the end of the roof fixed gear and slings allowed you to be lowered with 70 m rope. The other choice - continue traverse (~10-15 feet) right to to bolts anckor ( presumably crux of the route, but I did not tried )


Next to Entrance Exam ( right)


3x 0.5" to 2", 2#3 , one 3.5" 70m rope

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By Osprey Overhang
From: ...
Jan 6, 2012

cleaned by Kevin Worrall, Mark Chapman, 1975 FA: Henry Barber, Ajax Greene, 5/1975

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