Blotter is my Spotter 5.7 A4-
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 550 feet, Grade IV |
| Consensus: | 5.7 A4- [details] |
| FA: | p1. F. Sanders 1989 p2.-3. F. Sanders, P. Kingsbury, J. Kilroy Oct 4 2007 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | TomKingsbury on Oct 12, 2007 |
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Patrick Kingsbury and Jessica Kilroy at the start ...
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Devils Tower National Monument Lifts Current Prairie Falcon Climbing Route Closure MORE INFO >>>
07/01/2012: Because no falcon nesting activity has been observed, the prairie falcon nesting closures currently in effect will be removed on Sunday, July 1, thus opening these areas to normal recreational climbing activities. The areas to be reopened include on the northeast face, routes between and including “Belle Fourche Buttress” and “Maid in the Shaid” (routes #68 to #93), as well as the “North Face” rappel route.
Separate from the falcon closure, Devils Tower National Monument has a voluntary climbing closure in effect for the month of June, out of respect for American Indian cultural traditions. For further information on climbing closures, please contact the monument’s Chief of Resource Management, Angela Wetz, at (307) 467-5283 ext 212 or Angela_Wetz@nps.gov. For general climbing information please contact the Devils Tower Climbing Office at 307-467-5283, ext. 632.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description P1. straight foward aid leads to a thin section requiring beaks, rurps and stacks. (A3+) 140'.
P2. as many blades as you can bring, a marathon of a pitch. (A2+) 165'.
P3. Thin aid mixed with a few larger pieces in bad rock lead to a point where one is forced to free climb. (5.5, A4-) 100'
P4. 'The Kor Chimney', shares the same exit as 'Saber'. Follow the left leaning chimney right side in. (5.6) 100'
Location in the middle of the west face, two cracks left of 'spank the monkey'
Protection Standard tower aid rack, including lots of blades and beaks, and gear up to a 5 friend.
Frank Sanders leading, Patrick Kingsbury belaying ...
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NOW THAT'S AN AID PITCH !!! Looking down the long ...
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We Ran Out of Daylight, But NOT OUT Of Flashlight ...
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| Comments on Blotter is my Spotter |
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By TomKingsbury
Feb 12, 2008
| Franks description (from rc.com)
This First Pitch was first climbed in August, 1989 by Frank Sanders , solo.
Pitch 1. (140ft, 5.7, A3) Free climb, then aid up the corner. As height increases, the crack diminishes. The final 1/3 of the pitch is accomplished on hooks, RURPS, "heads" and a few tied-off blades. There is air to catch, but nothing to hit, Really. A 3-bolt belay rewards your efforts.
Pitches 2 & 3 were added in October 2007 by Patrick Kingsbury, Frank Sanders, with Faithful belays by Jessica Kilroy !!
Pitch 2. (165ft, A2)Aid on up the very slender crack until a belay can be arranged at the point where the rock becomes more broken. This is a Long, Fun aid pitch that requires many, many Knife Blades (30+), Lost Arrows and a few bigger pieces for the belay and occaissional pocket.
Pitch 3. (75ft, A3+/A4-,5.4)This one seems to be the CRUX of the climb. It is thin nailing, intersperced by large, rotten pods, through a couple bulges, until it is possible to free climb to a Very Solid Belay in the base of the Exit Chimney. (You need to take both Very Small & Very Large pieces on this one. Patrick recalls the pitch as going something like..."Baby Angle, #3.5 Camalot, Beaks, Beaks, Beaks, #4 Camalot, #2 Camalot, #5 Camalot(in a pile of Kitty Litter), #4 Camalot(in a similar pile), Beaks, Beaks, Beaks, RURP, RURP, RURP, Beaks, Beaks, Leeper-Z, Stopperhead, RURP, #2 Friend then unprotected 5.4 to the chimney belay" !!! Hats-Off to Patrick for a Bold and Innovative lead !!!
Pitch 4. (110ft, 5.6) Follow the Kor Chimney that is the Finish to the Saber Route (First climbed by Layton Kor & Steve "Tex" Bossier on April 26, 1964). Essential Gear Standard Aid Rack + 10-RURPS, 10-15 Beaks, 5-Leeper-Z, 30+ Knife Blades,6-#4&5 Friends/Camalots.
a better description than the quick one i posted....thanks Frank! |
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