|Type:||Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 550', Grade IV|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b A4- [details]|
|FA:||p1. F. Sanders 1989 p2.-3. F. Sanders, P. Kingsbury, J. Kilroy Oct 4 2007|
|Submitted By:||TomKingsbury on Oct 12, 2007|
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Feb 12, 2008
Franks description (from rc.com)
This First Pitch was first climbed in August, 1989 by Frank Sanders , solo.
Pitch 1. (140ft, 5.7, A3) Free climb, then aid up the corner. As height increases, the crack diminishes. The final 1/3 of the pitch is accomplished on hooks, RURPS, "heads" and a few tied-off blades. There is air to catch, but nothing to hit, Really. A 3-bolt belay rewards your efforts.
Pitches 2 & 3 were added in October 2007 by Patrick Kingsbury, Frank Sanders, with Faithful belays by Jessica Kilroy !!
Pitch 2. (165ft, A2)Aid on up the very slender crack until a belay can be arranged at the point where the rock becomes more broken. This is a Long, Fun aid pitch that requires many, many Knife Blades (30+), Lost Arrows and a few bigger pieces for the belay and occaissional pocket.
Pitch 3. (75ft, A3+/A4-,5.4)This one seems to be the CRUX of the climb. It is thin nailing, intersperced by large, rotten pods, through a couple bulges, until it is possible to free climb to a Very Solid Belay in the base of the Exit Chimney. (You need to take both Very Small & Very Large pieces on this one. Patrick recalls the pitch as going something like..."Baby Angle, #3.5 Camalot, Beaks, Beaks, Beaks, #4 Camalot, #2 Camalot, #5 Camalot(in a pile of Kitty Litter), #4 Camalot(in a similar pile), Beaks, Beaks, Beaks, RURP, RURP, RURP, Beaks, Beaks, Leeper-Z, Stopperhead, RURP, #2 Friend then unprotected 5.4 to the chimney belay" !!! Hats-Off to Patrick for a Bold and Innovative lead !!!
Pitch 4. (110ft, 5.6) Follow the Kor Chimney that is the Finish to the Saber Route (First climbed by Layton Kor & Steve "Tex" Bossier on April 26, 1964). Essential Gear Standard Aid Rack + 10-RURPS, 10-15 Beaks, 5-Leeper-Z, 30+ Knife Blades,6-#4&5 Friends/Camalots.
a better description than the quick one i posted....thanks Frank!