By Tradoholic Oct 3, 2011 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
This has an easier variation. Take the left crack system to a stance and a rusty pin on the face to the right. Traverse right on good holds and into a small alcove to join Bloody Mary proper. Called "The Fakir" 5.7 in Sven's book.
Has anybody ever climbed the tower on top of Bloody Mary? There is a tower with a large crack full of chock stones in the corner, and that corner is where a lead of Bloody Mary usually finishes. I'm talking about climbing the face of this tower (I believe it's a South face), staying a few feet left of that corner. When pulling the Bloody Mary roof, the climber traverses a bit to the right to reach that part of the tower. Alternatively, a climber finishing Prime Rib will be staring right at that face and crack.
There are some routes in Sven's book, but they seem to involve the outside arete or something. The descriptions are not clear.
I have..... as a finish to both Bloody Mary and Prime Rib. It goes at about 5.8 I think but I was forced right near the top into the corner for gear placements and the finish. I think it goes up and left on the arete but have never tried and I am pretty sure there would be a beefy run-out. Good gear up to that point though. This route is listed as "Tharsis" 5.11c #195 page 138 3rd Edition. there is no route in the guide describing climbing straight up the middle of this face.
I led the face, but not cleanly. A small brassy shortens the runout, but even without that piece it's probably pg13. I stayed on the face all the way up, probably 12b or 12c, finishing on the highest point of the tower, a big block, which is not top-rope-able.
Tom.... Give it a name... Post it. Post some pics.... Post as a project if you ain't sent. Content Content! Content needed.... Just kidding... Way to go having the vision to attempt amd nearly pull off otherwise... Did you try this from the ledge mid height up cliff (above Prime Rib etc..)? Just wondering.. was thinking a climb of this difficulty and so little gear... you would want your belayer positioned where he or she can be within view.
By Tradoholic Nov 10, 2011 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
Not toprope-able? That seems strange. Tom, post that up with pics so we can scrutinize it!
I also did the same finish Burt describes. I think the route you are talking about is left around the corner.