Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Pseudo Hawk's Nest
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
ABM TR 
Bagatelle T,TR 
Beginner's Delight T,TR 
Beginners Demise TR 
Bloody Mary T 
Chicken Delight/Chicken Tonight T,TR 
Couch of Pain T,TR 
Cracking Up T,TR 
Death & Disfiguration T 
Death and Transfiguration T,TR 
Degrade Your Sister T,TR 
Epiphany T 
Fakir, The T,TR 
Full Moon Over Baraboo T,TR 
Hero's Fright Variation TR 
Heroes Fright T,TR 
Immaculate Conception TR 
October First T,TR 
Phlogiston T,TR 
Pretzel, The T,TR 
Prime Rib T,TR 
Sofa-Isticated-Lady T,TR 
Wild Horses TR 

Bloody Mary 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 781
Submitted By: jon jugenheimer on Jul 6, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Burt did "Bloody Mary" through the roof, then wand...

Description 

start high up in pseudo Hawks Nest below a left leaning crack going through a roof. pull the roof, using jugs & bomber hand jams, then climb the easier wide crack above and behind the crux roof.

Protection 

cams, wires, and don't forget the hexes, oh yah, the hexes...


Photos of Bloody Mary Slideshow Add Photo
pulling up out of the roof
pulling up out of the roof
in the roof
in the roof
Rhoads.
Rhoads.

Comments on Bloody Mary Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tradoholic
Oct 3, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This has an easier variation. Take the left crack system to a stance and a rusty pin on the face to the right. Traverse right on good holds and into a small alcove to join Bloody Mary proper. Called "The Fakir" 5.7 in Sven's book.
By Tom Mulholland
From: #1 Cheese Producing State!
Nov 7, 2011

Has anybody ever climbed the tower on top of Bloody Mary? There is a tower with a large crack full of chock stones in the corner, and that corner is where a lead of Bloody Mary usually finishes. I'm talking about climbing the face of this tower (I believe it's a South face), staying a few feet left of that corner. When pulling the Bloody Mary roof, the climber traverses a bit to the right to reach that part of the tower. Alternatively, a climber finishing Prime Rib will be staring right at that face and crack.

There are some routes in Sven's book, but they seem to involve the outside arete or something. The descriptions are not clear.
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Nov 8, 2011

I have..... as a finish to both Bloody Mary and Prime Rib. It goes at about 5.8 I think but I was forced right near the top into the corner for gear placements and the finish. I think it goes up and left on the arete but have never tried and I am pretty sure there would be a beefy run-out. Good gear up to that point though. This route is listed as "Tharsis" 5.11c #195 page 138 3rd Edition. there is no route in the guide describing climbing straight up the middle of this face.
By Tom Mulholland
From: #1 Cheese Producing State!
Nov 9, 2011

I led the face, but not cleanly. A small brassy shortens the runout, but even without that piece it's probably pg13. I stayed on the face all the way up, probably 12b or 12c, finishing on the highest point of the tower, a big block, which is not top-rope-able.
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Nov 9, 2011

Tom.... Give it a name... Post it. Post some pics.... Post as a project if you ain't sent. Content Content! Content needed....
Just kidding... Way to go having the vision to attempt amd nearly pull off otherwise... Did you try this from the ledge mid height up cliff (above Prime Rib etc..)? Just wondering.. was thinking a climb of this difficulty and so little gear... you would want your belayer positioned where he or she can be within view.
By Tradoholic
Nov 10, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Not toprope-able? That seems strange. Tom, post that up with pics so we can scrutinize it!

I also did the same finish Burt describes. I think the route you are talking about is left around the corner.
By Tom Mulholland
From: #1 Cheese Producing State!
Nov 10, 2011

I'll try to get on it this weekend (weather permitting) and get some pics so the debate can continue! Should be VERY photogenic (I think there are good views from the top).