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 ADVANCED
The Red Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Always Leave a Generous Root Tip S 
Baby Teeth S 
Bad Case of Gingervitus  S 
Bloody Impaction S 
Cavity Bones S 
Cuspidnator, The S 
Dry Socket S 
Face Plant T 
Facial Fracture S 
Gum Cheese S 
Latrogenic Pain S 
Liken Z' Planus S 
Shark's Teeth S 
Third Molar Round-Up S 

Bloody Impaction 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: the dentist
Page Views: 2,449
Submitted By: Jake Richens on Sep 30, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (38)
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The best part of the climb!!

Description 

The initial moves are the crux, nice climb

Protection 

bolts to anchor


Photos of Bloody Impaction Slideshow Add Photo
Cruising up the face on what may be the last gorgeous day of the year
Cruising up the face on what may be the last gorge...
Impaction
Impaction

Comments on Bloody Impaction Add Comment
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By triznuty
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 5, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The begin moves are the best. Also the finish is cool because the change in rock texture. Probably one of the best routes on the wall...
By Jake Richens
From: Sl, ut
Apr 29, 2006

5.9+ is fair for this climb, the hardest moves are at the beginning and is eases up a lot after 20 feet.
By Nathan Fisher
May 14, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great route with a tought start and a tough end.
By Brennan Crellin
Administrator
From: Draper, UT
May 29, 2012

Best route at this crag, mostly because it is the only one that is remotely sustained. It is sustained 5.8 to 5.9+ and then has a few 5.10- opening moves. Good safe lead for climber working into the 5.10 spectrum.