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Super Hits - Bloody Fingers
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Bloody Fingers 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 13,346
Submitted By: Guy H. on Jun 15, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (208)
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Liebacking the crux...

Description 

This is probably the best 5.10a trad crack climb at the city, with Thin Slice coming in a close 2nd. It is located on the east side of the Lower Breadloafs about 200ft from the large group parking lot.

The crux is the first 25ft, which is protected by a #1.5 friend or equilivant. Fire in the pro and lieback the slanting crack to the horn. (which is a little loose) The final 75ft follows a right leaning finger-hand-finger crack to a 2 bolt anchor. The final tough section below the anchor can be avoided by runout 5.8 face climbing on the left. A rap with a single 60M will put you on the ground.

Protection 

Gear to 2 inches, include some thin stuff


Photos of Bloody Fingers Slideshow Add Photo
Matt hand jammin' the middle crack.
Matt hand jammin' the middle crack.
blooody fingers
blooody fingers
This butt shot offers no value other than a visual lesson in jamming and a color-coordinated outfit. <br /> <br />October 2012
This butt shot offers no value other than a visual...
Max, over the initial difficulties and on cruise control.
Max, over the initial difficulties and on cruise c...
Bloody Fingers area w/o lines.
BETA PHOTO: Bloody Fingers area w/o lines.
1) Bloody Fingers <br />2) New Toy <br />3) Twist and Crawl
BETA PHOTO: 1) Bloody Fingers 2) New Toy 3) Twist and Crawl
This photo was in the EMS catalog a couple years, ago.  The horn Le is hanging on is alittle loose.
This photo was in the EMS catalog a couple years, ...
KB on Bloody Fingers
KB on Bloody Fingers
C Darr on Bloody Fingers.
C Darr on Bloody Fingers.
View of climber on <a href='/v/bloody-fingers/105741026'>Bloody Fingers</a> while  rappelling <a href='/v/twist-and-crawl/105741101'>Twist and Crawl</a>.
View of climber on Bloody Fingers while rappellin...
12 year old Matt Wade following his old man
12 year old Matt Wade following his old man
Following Bloody Fingers, squeezing out an awkward rest.
Following Bloody Fingers, squeezing out an awkward...
Bloody Fingers
Bloody Fingers
This butt shot gives slightly more value in terms of route context. You're welcome.
This butt shot gives slightly more value in terms ...
Enjoying the crack
Enjoying the crack
At the upper crux.
At the upper crux.
Jamming the start
Jamming the start
Bloody Fingers
Bloody Fingers

Comments on Bloody Fingers Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 24, 2013
By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
Oct 4, 2005

Instead of liebacking try hitting all the handjams in the first 20 feet. Much more enjoyable (and secure). - BJ Sbarra
By rpc
May 22, 2006

What a great route!
Liebacking the initial crack/flake would be scary and insecure IMHO! It makes for a reasonable finger/hand jam climbing.
By Nathan Fisher
Aug 5, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

What a great route. The best I have done at the City. Twin cruxes, variety of jams, good exposure. I definitely preferred the lieback start.
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Sep 20, 2006

The lieback start is definitely more of a challenge when it is 40 degrees out and you can't feel your hands. This area is a bit of a wind tunnel from the western winds in the morning.

You can lower off and clean this climb with a 70M rope.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 11, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Technical and pretty. A very long single pitch for the area.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Aug 14, 2007

This route is reminiscent of "Rubicon" in J-Tree, wider and easier but fantastic. A must do!
By bissell
Jul 24, 2008

if you like bloody fingers, try white lightning or double cracks. white lightning is for me the best 10.a crack climb i have done at the city. animal cracker is another good one.
By Brice W
Sep 8, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

There is a pretty good stance at the beginning to reach up and place gear that will get you through most of the crux, so the lieback didn't seem too bad. Outstanding route!
By Nicholas Yaskoff
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 18, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

In my opinion Bloody Fingers is highly overrated. I lead it after reading all the great reviews and was disappointed. Perhaps if I had no expectations it would have been different, however, there wasn’t a single move or feature on the route that caught my attention. A much more aesthetic and enjoyable route is Thin Slice (10a).
By DaveHerr
From: Park City, ut
May 18, 2009

Fun climb. Go with what you know for the start be it layback or jambs on the traditional start. Any ideas on the start from the right on the angled 'flakes'? Fun from the right but a bit dicey on the pro.
By Fat Paul
From: Central, NJ
Jun 12, 2009

Nice route but easier than 10a. Use some nuts to spice up your ascent.
By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 27, 2009

PERFECT hand and foot girl jams on the starting crack; lieback, what?!

You can lower off and clean with a 60 m rope as well--just have your belayer tie a knot at the end.


Edited later (2012) to add: the route poster states gear to 2, but I actually found a single #3 handy to have.
By Michael Buchanan
Jul 22, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

For those with #2 camalot hand jams, start is thin hands/fingers. Lieback seemed harder then just jamming the thing. Crux is definitely the start to the sweet ledge. I used .5 camalots to protect the start. The slabby face above the ledge is runout, but small micro-stoppers can be used if wanted. The direct finish is sooooooo sweet. 60m rope can get you off, or a hike off to climbers left.
By Blitzo
Aug 23, 2010

One of the best routes that I've done at the City.
By kzoo
From: michigan
Sep 13, 2010

WOW! I agree that this is best trad line at the city. The route has one small rest about 15 ft up after the initial start, but 99% of the climb is amazing. I don't care if you call it 5.9+ or 5.10 - just a great climb that eats up gear. Climb the beginning like a jam crack!
By Wooderson
From: Seattle, WA
Oct 16, 2010

Fairly easy to protect.

If setting up a top rope, probably best to leave 1 or 2 pieces in to protect against a large pendulum fall on the lower crux.

Face climbing the upper 3/4 isn't any harder than 5.8.
By rivercat
From: Snoqualmie, Washington
Oct 30, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

the right side start is pretty fun on TR, not sure about pro for a lead...
By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
Aug 13, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Like the first person to comment said, try jamming instead of liebacking. The start is a bit greasy and feels a ton more secure if jammed rather than liebacked, protects well. Not really sure why the guidebooks offers the warning of accidents on the bottom section as it protect well and can feel really secure.
By Eric Haye
From: Boulder
Sep 3, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Standard fist jams work just fine for the start. The top can be a little run out but just trust your ability and you'll reach the anchors.
By Rockwood
From: West Jordan
Sep 28, 2012

For some amazing pictures have someone climb Twist and Crawl, the 5.8 to the right which is pretty fun. You'll get the climber coming up Bloody Fingers and the whole city in the background. The view is almost as good as the climb.
By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Nov 18, 2012

Just a bit of thin hands jamming at the start for the man hand set to provide difficulties. Nothing wrong with the climb, but it suffered from Pillowsoft Overhype Syndrome (POS) in my experience. A good time, a fun romp, but nothing mind blowing; not even a standout from several other trad 10a climbs I did at the City. Maybe I'm just the cranky outlier on this one, but I had more fun on several other climbs at the same grade in this area.
By K Baumgartner
Jun 27, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Why lieback, when one can crack climb it? The physical crux is definitely the first 20 feet, but the mental one is topping out on slabby runout climbing.

This is an EXTREMELY soft 10a in the City, especially when compared to Crack of Dung. If you're solid on your crack climbing technique, this is no harder than a 9.
By slim
Administrator
Aug 5, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

really fun route with straight forward gear and excellent jamming. the only blemish is the loose horn, surprised nobody has really mentioned it. might want to be careful there, although if it hasn't come off yet.....
By Hendo
From: Denver, CO
Aug 5, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Jam the first 20ft. It's much easier that way. The rock is getting pretty smooth right there b/c of all the traffic. Thus, lie-backing it getting tough.

There's a secret C4 cam placement up high. Good luck finding it!
By rig
Sep 8, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Probably the best 5.10a at the City or pretty much anywhere.
By Tyson W.
From: South Lake Tahoe, CA
Sep 24, 2013

I jammed the start, which felt really reasonable. The crux definitely came at the top of the climb for me... Thin, tenuous, and a bit tricky up there. The diagonal hand crack was good fun.