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Mike uses the sharp crack
"A fall from this knife-edged crack can be messy. This climb follows a thin crack near the northwest edge of the south pillar of the Doorway. Begin on a bench 6 ft. above the ground." (1970 Climbers and Hikers Guide)
On the west side of the Doorway's south pillar. You can mount the initial ledge either from the south or the west.
A couple of half inch nuts or cams.
Trying to get as high on rock (climbing.. that is)...