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This is an obscure route on the far left side of Turkey Perch. It is the crack system just left of Liquid Acrobat. The climb starts with an undercling about chest level. The crack is #3 Camalot to start with. The crack soon becomes a double crack, one that is hand-size and the other a bit smaller. The crux of the climb is in the beginning and finishes in the 5.6 range. A short route that is well worth 15 minutes of your time. It doesn't get a lot of use and has some loose rock near the top. The tree at the top offers a great belay in the shade on this sunny, south-facing climb.
Light rack to 3".
BETA PHOTO: Start of Bloody Englishman.
I struggled at the start until I discovered that I...
A crack on the right helps you get past a narrowin...
Me leading Bloody Bnglishman.
Out of focus, but it's me on Bloody Englishman.
Ryan transitioning into the upper crack of the rou...
My son Tristan leading Bloody Englishman.
Tristan jamming both cracks.
Tristan's small hands fit the crack nicely.
Moving up on the jams.
Finding the correct cam.
Tristan enjoying the fine crack.
And a facehold out right!
Searching for the next gear placement?
|Comments on Bloody Englishman
|By Michael Walker|
From: Loveland, CO
Oct 13, 2001
I believe this route is called "Bloody Englishman". Small semantics ;-p Not only is it a quality route, it is probably the only thing you'll get to climb on this crag as the routes of the Turkey Perch swarm with schools! A worthy climb but three stars? A little short for me.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Mar 13, 2005
I would agree with Michael. This route has some nice moves, but it is too short to warrant three stars. I would suggest a rating of 5.7. This route and Liquid Acrobat can be TR'ed from the same anchor.
|By Jon Cannon|
Oct 18, 2005
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
I'd say this is all of an .8, even by South Platte standards. It's certainly more difficult than Gobble Up, also rated an .8, but I agree that there's only about 20 feet of sustained hard climbing before it becomes a walk.
Oh, and Chris Wray took that action photo I submitted. Credit where it's due, and all that.
|By Pat W|
Jun 12, 2006
I'd say the initial moves in the crack earn a 5.8, somehwhat strenuous. Reach high for the first jam with wide jams for feet. Those with smaller hands will find the start tough, stacked hands or hand and fist, hand size dependant. I could reach for a fist jam where my partner had to do a weird stack move (hard for an 8 move for her). Easy after the opening jams. Also, no need to undercling the start, just some stemming. "Spread you legs and trust the rubber." Haha. One star out of three. At least there shouldn't be a line.
|By Jason Kaplan|
From: Glenwood ,Co
May 28, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
The first section getting into the double crack section is pretty tough for a 5.8. I found some small edges that were on the edge of the right side of the crack that helped alot when trying to lieback the right crack stepping into the double section before I could jam my whole foot in the crack. For sure one of the tougher 5.8s I have lead, even on TR my partner had some difficulties. I hung on gear once in the double crack section. I must go back an get it clean now. How tough is it to step out right into the other steeper less wide crack to the top? After the first 20-30 feet the route is pretty much over. Left-Handed Jew was much better (cleaner more sustained and less awfulwidth).