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South Side
Routes Sorted
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B-52 T 
Bat's Ass T 
Bloody Crack T 
Catch Me Now I'm Falling T 
Chaos Out of Control T 
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First Return T 
Gemini Crack T 
Good Intentions T 
Left Up T 
Lichen or Not T 
Mettle Detector T,S 
name unknown (Bamboozled) T 
Parachute Woman T 
Rat's Ass T 
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Slug, The T 
Unfinished Concerto T 
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Unsorted Routes:

Bloody Crack 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Stan Wallace, Jim McEver, Ron Cousins in 1973
Season: Avoid summertime, unless
Page Views: 4,523
Submitted By: Rob Dillon on Oct 16, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (69)
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The start of Bloody (smooth) crack, Looking Glass,...

Description 

Can you see yourself in the starting holds? Generations of muddy-booted toproping campers have polished the footholds beyond all hope of repair.

Look for a handcrack that doesn't quite reach the ground. Avoiding the snot-slick opening feet by smearing arbitrarily on the face, thug your way into the crack proper and jam up to Stage Ledge. If you are a guide, or a camp counselor, rue the chopping of the convenience bolts and tediously rig a belay in the corner. Toss your toprope off, and spend the day encouraging your young charges to trust their feet despite the clearly impossible nature of the exhortation. 5.7+, 50'.

P2: Follow the corner off the left end of the ledge, escaping before it arches over. Belay in eyebrows when you feel like it.

P3: Meander left to the Gemini raps, 150'.

Location 

Bloody Crack is located near the right end of the South Face, below a large ledge with 4th-class access at the right end.

Protection 

No fixed gear. Standard rack.


Photos of Bloody Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Topping out P1
Topping out P1
Belay ledge at the top of pitch one.
BETA PHOTO: Belay ledge at the top of pitch one.

Comments on Bloody Crack Add Comment
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By Mike Anderson
From: Dayton, OH
Apr 19, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Another boulder problem route. Bring a crash pad and jump off after 15' and save yourself some time.
By Andy Kowles
From: Longtuckles
Oct 17, 2011

Haha on above comment. Fun to take this up all the way to the top with a 70m. Fun warmup pitch when you combine every good move.

Boo hoo hoo on the polished start.
By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Oct 18, 2011

Slick Willy Start, that rock has seen its share of use and its not hard to tell by its polish and shimmer. Even though it is a highly traveled route it is definitely worth a go, especially if your new to the South Face area. Another route where a crash pad is very easing on the mind and body.

  • If your going to climb at the South Face, just bring a crash pad or a couple soft fluffy bunnies, I mean buddies and save yourself some anxiety*