|Type: ||Trad, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA: ||Stan Wallace, Jim McEver, Ron Cousins in 1973|
|Season: ||Avoid summertime, unless|
|Page Views: ||4,009|
|Submitted By: ||Rob Dillon on Oct 16, 2006|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
The start of Bloody (smooth) crack, Looking Glass,...
Can you see yourself in the starting holds? Generations of muddy-booted toproping campers have polished the footholds beyond all hope of repair.
Look for a handcrack that doesn't quite reach the ground. Avoiding the snot-slick opening feet by smearing arbitrarily on the face, thug your way into the crack proper and jam up to Stage Ledge. If you are a guide, or a camp counselor, rue the chopping of the convenience bolts and tediously rig a belay in the corner. Toss your toprope off, and spend the day encouraging your young charges to trust their feet despite the clearly impossible nature of the exhortation. 5.7+, 50'.
P2: Follow the corner off the left end of the ledge, escaping before it arches over. Belay in eyebrows when you feel like it.
P3: Meander left to the Gemini raps, 150'.
Bloody Crack is located near the right end of the South Face, below a large ledge with 4th-class access at the right end.
No fixed gear. Standard rack.
|By Mike Anderson|
From: Dayton, OH
Apr 19, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
Another boulder problem route. Bring a crash pad and jump off after 15' and save yourself some time.
|By Andy Kowles|
Oct 17, 2011
Haha on above comment. Fun to take this up all the way to the top with a 70m. Fun warmup pitch when you combine every good move.
Boo hoo hoo on the polished start.
|By Mike Holley|
From: Boone, NC
Oct 18, 2011
Slick Willy Start, that rock has seen its share of use and its not hard to tell by its polish and shimmer. Even though it is a highly traveled route it is definitely worth a go, especially if your new to the South Face area. Another route where a crash pad is very easing on the mind and body.
- If your going to climb at the South Face, just bring a crash pad or a couple soft fluffy bunnies, I mean buddies and save yourself some anxiety*