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 ADVANCED
(5) Bat Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bad Omen S 
Bat Wall Traverse, The 
Bela Lugosi S 
Bloodline S 
Bloodsucker S 
Dracula S 
Frightnight S 
Haunting, The T 
Lost Boys S 
Manson Family Reunion S 
Predator S 
Superstition S 

Bloodsucker 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 362
Submitted By: Eric Schnepel on Apr 3, 2011

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Bloodsucker

Description 

I don't think this one receives much attention, but it's stout little crux makes for a solid climb. Although it is quite short and shares a hold or two with Bloodline, it is surprisingly fun. The difficulties are very brief but fairly intense and consist of a couple bouldery moves followed by a balancy lean just above the first bolt. Fun route. Do it.

Location 

One route left of bloodline

Protection 

Three bolts and an anchor


Photos of Bloodsucker Slideshow Add Photo
The crux.
The crux.
Pumpy laybacking.
Pumpy laybacking.

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By bryans
Oct 21, 2014
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

I love this route, usually just toproped it. But one day I hung a long draw on the second bolt (or maybe third?) so that the draw would be there when I arrived. I think there is groundfall potential getting to that second bolt, otherwise. Leading this route without the draws hanging is probably a bit sketchy. Then again, I worry too much...(You can lead Superstition, then lower down over the bolts on Bloodsucker)