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Another worthwhile stop on the Boulder Canyon obscure trad tour. Somewhat reminiscent of FM, but shorter, not as clean and less well-protected. Rolofson gives it an R-, though I found it to be adequately protected, though there is a bit of a runout at the crux. This climb looks a lot more licheny than it climbs.
Moderate stemming leads to harder stemming (crux), a bit of a rest and another hard move passing a bulge. After the bulge cut right onto good holds or boldly go straight up (looked pretty hard) with pro increasingly far below you.
The pitch's length of 60' is somewhat misleading as the last 20' are easy (and unprotected) slabbing up to the anchors at the end of Amazing Face's second pitch.
The corner faces SW so it stays in the shade for a while on hot summer days.
The obvious, left-facing corner about 15' right of the second pitch of Amazing Face is most easily approached by heading up the gully right of Meteor Rhoadblock for about 50' then cutting left about 30' along a ledge (one 3rd class move) to the nice ledge at the base of the route.
I placed a couple of RPs, two or three Rocks in the #3 - #6 range, a #0.4 Camalot, a red Alien and a #3 Camalot and a #0 C3 (though not in that order). Another piece one size larger than the #3 Camalot might have been nice. Another finger-size cam could have been placed at the end of the crux but, placing it would be challenging and it might compromise a large flake which, if it went, would impart much ugliness on both the climber and the belayer.
|By Mark Ferguson|
Apr 7, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a PG13
Although short, this climb packs a punch and the pro is difficult to place and at times uninspiring. I think it checks in at about 11c, and it is worth lugging a rack up for it.