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 ADVANCED
East Gate Buttress
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Bloodline 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Drew Bedford-1986?
Season: cold mornings, or warm evenings
Page Views: 1,250
Submitted By: bheller on Nov 9, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: bloodline

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Description 

This is a fairly sustained route, but the crux is right above the second knifeblade. After you execute the crux you must climb a few feet above above the extruding knifeblade before you can get in reliable gear. I think the pins are solid, but you do risk falling onto them, hence the PG-13 rating. The climbing sequences are tip-top. At times the cams impede the jams, so I found I had to climb through some sequences and place my gear below me.
At 2/3rds height, clip the bolt (new) and do the ninja move left to the right facing flake. Layback, romp up, and finish the low-angled slab to clip the chains. It is a little hard to communicate with your belayer from the top, so consider rappelling. Also, the climb is rated 12b in the Wasatch Guide, but I feel it likely warrants 12c.

Location 

The obvious right leaning fingercrack that starts off the ledge/pillar, and sports the 2 knifeblades. 2/3rds the way up on the East Gate buttress wall.

Protection 

small nuts, draws, tips to off-fingers cams with one handsized unit. Lower off chains at top


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By drewford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Jan 14, 2011
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

The original route ended at slings around a horn at the end of the crack. A few years later I repeated the route and noticed the flakes out left. I added one bolt and a belay that extended the route another 30 or 40 feet.

I don't see the need for a PG rating. The gear is there. Perhaps not simple to place, but it's there.