|(5) Bat Wall
This striking and powerful line is one the best on the Bat wall. Containing power, balance, and finesse this route is a masterpiece. The opening moves are the hardest but upper moves still pack a punch. Begin up a very steep start below the remenants of a massive old beehive. This hive was removed long ago to reveal several very nice sharp incuts. (Route is also known a B-line or Beeline due to this) Continue up through a series of changing corners up to a huge roof. Traverse the roof and pull the lip on the left side. There are nice chain anchors just above the roof on a ledge.
The route is well bolted and was solely a sport climb up until a few years ago when several locals did the Retro-trad ascent. No bolts were removed but the entire route was done on gear. A trad ascent of the route is a spicy endeavor and should probably be rehearsed on TR or on bolts first.
Be careful with yourself and the rope at the base as this area is known for having poison ivy and tons of stinging nettles.
Quickdraws and a few long slings for the anchor
Cams to #3, standard and offset nuts
BETA PHOTO: My exact Beta for Bloodline. DO LOOK AT THIS IF YO...
|By mark d|
Mar 11, 2006
one of the best routes around portland. a must do for the grade. very aesthetic climb with a roof at the end.
|By Bob Graham|
Nov 6, 2006
great route, fun roof
Nice job Mark I never saw this pic, right on!
|By Eric Schnepel|
Nov 5, 2010
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b
Seriously a sweet line. Has the largest variety of movement of anything I have ever climbed. The physically hardest moves come in the early boulder problem to the first bolt. A technical and unique midsection leading into a short finger crack takes you to a large roof. Traverse the roof from right to left on jugs then crank over the lip and reach for a triangular mono. The crux for me was pulling over the roof to the triangular pocket. The move is not terribly hard once it's unlocked. It's just insecure and slightly awkward. This route was somewhat beta intensive and sequential for me.
|By Alex Shainman|
From: the best place right now!
Jun 24, 2013
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a
The bees are back in town.
From: Portland, OR
Jul 3, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
Everyone can tackle the first crux differently, so open your mind and trust your feet ;) The line becomes much less tiring once you realize that the middle 25 feet of the route is fun, off-vertical slab climbing.
I know it's been said before, but cranking off your heel and (lightly) pulling the mono is one of the coolest parts of the climb, so I don't recommend scooting left at the top, you'd just be cutting yourself short.
BTW - Nobody can get on this (summer 2013) until someone evicts the winged tenants. Not it!