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Bloodhound 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Dave Pegg, 2009
Page Views: 468
Submitted By: Michael Schneiter on Sep 12, 2011

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Description 

Bloodhound is a long, quality extension to Road to Nowhere, a often neglected 11a in Rifle. It features hard, technical climbing and a burly finish through a roof.

After climbing Road to Nowhere, continue above the anchor on relatively easy ground for a few bolts on excellent stone that is beautifully featured limestone. After clipping a bolt on a rounded arete feature, you start to enter a series of crux moves that doesn't stop for a few bolts with scant rests. Make a difficult move left around the arete to a good stance before firing through a difficult undercling section, moving right on difficult feet. Move up on good holds while fighting the pump through a "hollow" feature where a perma-draw is located to a series of rails. Lock off on the upper, slanted rail to two tiny crimps and a hard move to the right where a large jug is found. Rest before the final roof where underclings, a couple of sweet pockets and some big moves are found. A nice knee bar is found to help clip the anchors.

70 meter rope is required.

Location 

This is the extension to Road to Nowhere, an 11a that is about 30 yards to the right of the Plastic Prince "mini-cave" routes.

Protection 

16 bolts with one perma-draw plus the anchor.


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By Taylor Roy
From: Boulder, Co
Apr 29, 2013
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Nice route, Dave!