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Middle Earth
Routes Sorted
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A Flake Called Lee 
Bloodguard 
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Cave Route, The 
For Short People Only 
Go Ballistic 
I Am a Cam 
In Your Head 
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Unsorted Routes:

Bloodguard 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a R

   
Type: Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 37'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 423
Submitted By: Victor K on Sep 25, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: Bloodguard

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  • Description 

    Start at the center of a blank face, move up to a quartz vein then move left to a broken crack system. Hand traverse back right at the ledge, then move up through a fun series of small roofs.


    Location 

    This is the leftmost area of Middle Earth. Head right before concrete steps adjacent to the Pillar, then scramble up through a small boulder field to the base of the climb.


    Protection 

    Top rope-able. The run out section is in the first 15' of the route.



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    By Darren Smith
    Apr 20, 2013

    There is a very tricky but bomber horizontal BD #4 (purple) stopper placement about 12ft up that makes this a much safer lead.