|Type:||Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 37'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]|
|Submitted By:||Victor K on Sep 25, 2012|
|Comments on Bloodguard||Add Comment|
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By Darren Smith
Apr 20, 2013
|There is a very tricky but bomber horizontal BD #4 (purple) stopper placement about 12ft up that makes this a much safer lead.|
By Phil Keffer
Dec 5, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
The route in the beta photo and description is a variation from the original route. The original route goes straight up the face and just "feels" right. The zig zag variation can be fun, but is dangerous on lead do to the landing area. The arete is off in both variations.
Once you figure out the first few face moves, you can reach up to the horizontal crack and find a great first piece placement of a .3 BD cam. Though a little high, this horizontal crack placement will have you feeling completely secure. I would just skip the BD #4 stopper suggestion if you are going straight up the face.