Bloodguard  5.11+

2,556 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160 feet Consensus:  5.11c/d [details] FA:  FA (as "Non-Dairy Creamer" III 5.8 A3): Chris Ballinger, Jim Lynch, & Frank Sanders - 10/12/1977 FFA: Skinner, Wald, Cowan, & Piana - 7/19/1984 Submitted By:  Joe Collins on Sep 2, 2002 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Taken June, 2000

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Devils Tower National Monument Lifts Current Prairie Falcon Climbing Route Closure MORE INFO >>> 07/01/2012: Because no falcon nesting activity has been observed, the prairie falcon nesting closures currently in effect will be removed on Sunday, July 1, thus opening these areas to normal recreational climbing activities. The areas to be reopened include on the northeast face, routes between and including “Belle Fourche Buttress” and “Maid in the Shaid” (routes #68 to #93), as well as the “North Face” rappel route. Separate from the falcon closure, Devils Tower National Monument has a voluntary climbing closure in effect for the month of June, out of respect for American Indian cultural traditions. For further information on climbing closures, please contact the monument’s Chief of Resource Management, Angela Wetz, at (307) 467-5283 ext 212 or Angela_Wetz@nps.gov. For general climbing information please contact the Devils Tower Climbing Office at 307-467-5283, ext. 632. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This may very well be one of the best hard finger cracks in North America. Rated anywhere between 11c to 12a in the various guidebooks I've seen, I'll post it as 11+. Even then, it feels like somewhat of a testpiece at hard-5.11.

Begin just to the left of the starts to Jerry's Kids and Avalon (just left of the pentagonal roof at mid-height in the picture below) . Scramble up to the finger crack which becomes increasingly difficult with height. A long rope stretcher pitch with the last 15 foot crux section consisting of desperate tips jamming and/or offset liebacking.

Protection 

Lots and lots of small to medium stoppers and small cams

Photos of Bloodguard Slideshow

Add Photo

Kevin Cooper on a glorious TR of Bloodguard, and N...	Cooper and Dubois recovering their rope from a poi...	The bottom portion of Bloodguard. The best finger...