Blood Whine 5.11
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a/b [details] |
| FA: | Bob D'Antonio and Greg Hand |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Ron Olsen on Apr 1, 2006 |
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Greg Hand on Blood Whine variation.
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Open to climbing MORE INFO >>>
Per Rik Henrikson, Boulder County Sherriff: please note, Parks and Open Space WAS determined that this crag WAS subject to indefinite closure; however, a site visit with a state biologist has confirmed this site is very close to a closed area, but this crag is OPEN TO CLIMBING.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description The crux is getting over the roof at the start. Start as for Red Bull, clip a bolt over the roof and make a series of hard moves getting established over the roof. Clip the third bolt and then reach a ledge, place the cams and then fire up the cool arete firing past two more bolts to the anchor.
Protection Five clips plus a yellow and green Alien will get you to a two bolt anchor.
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Nov 16, 2006 rating: 5.10d
| The low crux is a single power sequence. Maybe 10+/11-. Not sure. The start also need not be as for Red Bull, you can do the slab left of that lone bolt for some new territory, and it's not too hard or unsafe. The arete up top has cool moves- look for camouflaged holds instead of getting sucked too far off to the right. |
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