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Higher Energy Crag
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Blood Whine 
Full Throttle 
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Red Bull 
Twisted Chopper 

Blood Whine 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Greg Hand
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 271
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Apr 1, 2006
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Greg Hand on Blood Whine variation.
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  • Description 

    The crux is getting over the roof at the start. Start as for Red Bull, clip a bolt over the roof and make a series of hard moves getting established over the roof. Clip the third bolt and then reach a ledge, place the cams and then fire up the cool arete firing past two more bolts to the anchor.


    Protection 

    Five clips plus a yellow and green Alien will get you to a two bolt anchor.



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    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Nov 16, 2006
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

    The low crux is a single power sequence. Maybe 10+/11-. Not sure. The start also need not be as for Red Bull, you can do the slab left of that lone bolt for some new territory, and it's not too hard or unsafe.
    The arete up top has cool moves- look for camouflaged holds instead of getting sucked too far off to the right.