Blood Sugar Sex Magik 5.10d
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 150 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10d [details] |
| FA: | Fred Berman & Marty Lewis, '91. |
| Submitted By: | Greg Barnes on Dec 21, 2006 |
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Description Long, fun climb with a couple cruxes and tons of jug hauling. Don't worry when you're gassed and you can't see the anchor--the last 60 feet are 5.9 jugs.
Location See Marty Lewis guide.
Protection Lots of bolts (16?). Rap twice with a single 60m rope to Insane in the Membrane; watch rope ends!
| Comments on Blood Sugar Sex Magik |
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By C Miller
Administrator
Dec 21, 2006
rating: 5.10d
| Lots and lots of climbing on this long and very enjoyable route. Also the name of a great album by the Red Hot Chili Peppers. |
By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Feb 13, 2011
| The Lewis guide seems to indicate you can lower off with a 70m rope to the ledge at the start of the climb. We tried this today and found it comes up significantly short no matter what you try to do. Better to rap off or lower to the Insane in the Membrane anchors, even with a 70m. If you had an 80m it would be just fine! :) |
By danielwhore
Nov 14, 2011
| We used a 70m rope to lower off and it worked just fine - but both climbers must be standing on the ledge. You definitely want to tie a knot at the end of the rope, because your belayer will most likely want to have his/her hands free to climb onto the ledge, as it involves a few 4th class moves to get to the ledge (about 11 feet off the ground). Very mellow and very easy for both climber and belayer to downclimb. Highly recommended route, especially if 5.10d is normally hard for you. |
By marc farra
Apr 20, 2013
| Amazing climb! Just wanted to make sure people understand as the last poster mentioned with a 70 meter rope the belayer has to climb up to the little ledge in order to get the climber down to that same ledge safely. |
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