Blood Ruby 5.11d
| 1,620 page views Good page?  |
| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 35 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11c/d [details] |
| FA: | Tristan Higbee, Christian Burrell |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Tristan Higbee on Jul 14, 2008 |
| |
Jonny Wilson wishing he had night vision on Blood ...
Add Photo Printer View
Description Wow! What a climb! It starts off easy enough for several moves. Then you have to make a deadpoint (technical crux) with your left hand from good jugs and crimpers to a tiny little crimp. But it doesn't let up much after that. Make some more moves on crimpers to a diagonal slot/pocket (clip the 4th bolt from there), do another couple moves with bad feet and then lunge for the big (but not quite as big as you'd like) jug under the chains. Feel around for some big jugs up higher and clip the chains. The right arete is off limits. The easiest way is to the left, anyway...
Location The right-most of the two routes on the east side of Treasure Island.
Protection 5 bolts to chains.
Canyon at the fourth bolt on bloody ruby
| Caleb clipping into the chains on bloody ruby
| |
By Tristan Higbee From: Mexico Jul 14, 2008
| I think this is one of the better routes I've established. Continuously fun and difficult climbing. The name comes from some early redpoint attempts. I cut my fingers on some of the sharp holds but kept on climbing, getting blood on most of the holds. Don't worry, the blood is mostly gone now... |
By Christian "crisco" Burrell From: PG, Utah Jul 14, 2008
| Great thin crux! I agree that if it were longer it would warrent another star, but it is worth the short hike. A good trail is in the planning stage but the landing is plush! If you like small holds this is a good route to get on. |
By Darren Knezek Jul 16, 2008 rating: 5.11d
| Great route guys! One of the better .11d's in Rock Canyon! |
By Justin Raymond From: Orem, Utah Jul 21, 2008 rating: 5.11d
| Loved the route! It had some good reaches in it(at least the way i did it). Didn't see any blood on the holds. That was a good thing... Must do route! BTW..... I helped clean out the top holds. One the size of a soccer ball came loose on me. I knocked it off along with all the dirt. |
By Christian "crisco" Burrell From: PG, Utah Aug 23, 2008
| Thanks for pulling off that loose block at the top. We did the route again today and clipping the chain is so mellow now. That's the problem these days with putting in new lines. Everyone wants to complain that a route isn't clean enough but no one is willing to do some brushing themselves. So kudos to you dude! |
By Clay Allred From: Moab UT Aug 26, 2008
| Awesome route. I was really stoked on it with all the hype and I must say I wasn't disappointed. By the time I got around to my redpoint it was dark so I sent it via the Petzl headlamp which I think made it 12a :) Also, I pulled off a good hold at the bottom but don't worry, it's still only 10 something below the crux. |
By Tanner Wise Jun 8, 2011 rating: 5.11d
| I loved this climb! I was just looking at it thinking how cool it would be, so I decided to try it and what a gem. so happy I tried it and got the onsight! great climb on awesome crimps. |
By Brandon Bishoff From: Austin, TX Jun 16, 2011
| This was a ton of fun. The deadpoint was something I had never really done outside of the gym before and it felt great when I got it. Awesome route! |
By Thomas Holmes From: Utah Apr 10, 2012 rating: 5.11d
| I have nothing but good things to say about this route, well worth the approach. |
By Canyon Copa Jun 2, 2012
| Best 11d in the canyon. Really solid moves that are definitely easier with a longer reach. Clipping the fourth bolt off of two fingers on a tiny crimp was quite the mental battle. Clipping the fifth bolt was not much easier because of the footwork. I had high expectations and it didn't disappoint. |
|