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 ADVANCED
Zappa Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aid Line (Chockstone Roulette?) T 
Beside the Pillar T 
Big Hands Roof T 
Blood Pulse T 
Calcite Fingers T 
Curve, The T 
Dirty Red Cam Corner T 
Far Right Corner T 
Flake (unknown there was no plaque) T 
Fork It (HVS) T 
Frank Zappa Appreciation Society (aka Cobra Roof), The T 
Green Cam Lie Back T 
Hands to OW T 
Hands to OW Chimney (unknown due to no plaque) T 
Hanging to the Right (unknown due to no plaque) T 
Leaning Corner (aka Moderation) T 
Left Leaner T 
Mr. Sheeley T 
My Big 3 Inch (no plaque at bottom) T 
One Bolt Wonder (unknown not a plaque) T 
OW Corner T 
Point 5 roof T 
Short Corner T 
Short Dihedral T 
Short, Some Hands T 
Slightly Overhanging Wide Corner (unknown no plaque) T 
Zig-Zag T 

Blood Pulse 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Rob Pizem and Jesse Zacher
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 867
Submitted By: rob pizem on Feb 8, 2013

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Toproping the route.

Description 

Jesse Zacher and I checked this pitch out together and were both ready to overlook it for being too short and the start being too blank, but after both of us messed around on it, we realized that it had such unique movement that it had to be climbed.

This is a short, powerful crack. A thin and bouldery face section moves past a bolt to reach the thin crack. Finger locks get tighter as you move up and the main crack ends. Switch to the left seam past a 5 inch section to some balancy moves past the seam to the hand jam clip at the anchor.

Location 

This is a couple hundred yards to the left of the Big Hands Roof. Look for a big white piece of calcite at the base of the wall. There is another 5.11 OW in the corner to the right of this route in addition to a right-curving 5.11+ just a few feet to the right.

Protection 

1 quickdraw, #0 Metolius, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 5 inch cam and a green Alien, optional 0.5 cam, two bolt anchor.


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By heppnerd
Feb 18, 2013

Super tricky and harder than it looks. Super fun.