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Toproping the route.
Jesse Zacher and I checked this pitch out together and were both ready to overlook it for being too short and the start being too blank, but after both of us messed around on it, we realized that it had such unique movement that it had to be climbed.
This is a short, powerful crack. A thin and bouldery face section moves past a bolt to reach the thin crack. Finger locks get tighter as you move up and the main crack ends. Switch to the left seam past a 5 inch section to some balancy moves past the seam to the hand jam clip at the anchor.
This is a couple hundred yards to the left of the Big Hands Roof
. Look for a big white piece of calcite at the base of the wall. There is another 5.11 OW in the corner to the right of this route in addition to a right-curving 5.11+ just a few feet to the right.
1 quickdraw, #0 Metolius, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 5 inch cam and a green Alien, optional 0.5 cam, two bolt anchor.
Feb 18, 2013
Super tricky and harder than it looks. Super fun.