Blood on the Tracks
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This route has sustained 5.9 crack climbing for about 1000 feet. The overall route quality is very high so don't be dismayed by the heavy moss on the first half of the first pitch.
Approach as for Cinnamon Hedgehog. After climbing the 5.7 chimney, downclimb 30 feet until beneath two right-facing corners. Begin in the left of the two corners in scooped, white rock.
P1: Climb up the wide, right-facing corner to a small stance below a large bush. The rock is mossy on the first half of this pitch. 5.9 55m
P2: Continue up the corner through a chamber-like chimney and over a juggy roof. Belay at a stance where a two-foot wide ledge leads rightward. 5.9 60m
P3: Walk right on the ledge to just before the right-hand crack system. Face climb up and right on creaky flakes to join the crack about 30 feet above the ledge (alternatively, walk the ledge all the way to the crack and climb it). Continue up the crack and belay when the rope runs out. 5.8 70m
P4: Follow the crack to a large ledge 20 feet higher. Climb an intermittent seam straight up over a bulge of dark rock, then follow it up and slightly right. Protection is finicky but adequate. When the rock turns slabby, head right and belay in the wide corner beneath a gully. 5.9 45m
P5: Face climb up and right into the left-facing, flaring chimney with some loose rock. Climb it to its top and belay in a flat alcove. 5.9 50m
P6: Face climb up and left into a shallow, right-facing corner and follow this to a broad flat area and belay. 5.8 25m
P7: Gain a ledge just above with the help of a large pine tree. Walk the ledge right to a wide, left-leaning juggy crack and climb it to a large ledge on the right with two bolts – the top anchor of The Warrior. 5.7 40m Rap here, or continue scrambling up a gully that leads up and left past some pine trees to the summit of Cactus Flower Tower.
Blood on the Tracks climbs the double cracks between Cinnamon Hedgehog and The Warrior on the east face of Cactus Flower Tower. The first ascent party summitted the Tower then descended to the notch between the Tower and Mt. Wilson and continued up Cactus Connection (another new route) to the summit of Mt. Wilson.
Scramble and downclimb to the notch between Cactus Flower Tower and Mt. Wilson. The final move involves a leap across a chasm (belay recommended). Rappel 70 feet to the east off a small tree to a flat area beneath the north face of Mt. Wilson.
Alternatively, rappel The Warrior.
1ea: cams #00TCU through #5 Camalot; set of nuts
2ea: #.3 Camalot-#3Camalot
View from the approach. The shaded, right-facing c...
Blake following the juggy roof on pitch two.
Blake leading the rope-stretching third pitch.
Chris following pitch three.
Chris on the patina and seam of pitch four. While ...
Blake fiddling with gear before the chimney on pit...
1st pitch, you can see the heinous moss below, and...
3rd pitch, nice long hand crack that goes on for d...
|Comments on Blood on the Tracks
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 15, 2012
I've been looking at this line for years. Glad you guys had fun. Looks like a peach of a route.
Apr 15, 2012
Nice work, gents. Looks like fun.
|By Rob Fielding|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 5, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
Jumped on this thing yesterday, was excited to climb it ever since ya'll posted it up. I thought the route route was enjoyable, adventurous, stout, and bold. It's committing nature is was really brought me in, all natural belays. Retreat from any point would be somewhat difficult unless you want to leave gear. Far from a classic, but something a local in the area might want to jump on. I think the route will get better as it cleans up, but still is very fragile in a lot of areas.
As far as a rack goes, we brought doubles to 3" w/ single 4&5 w/ extra 1,2. Did a lot of leap frogging on the 1st pitch and had very spaced gear for most of the route. If I were to do it again, i'd bring single 00tcu-6" w/ double 0.3-5" and extras in 1, 2, and 3. We also climbed this route w/ a 70 m rope, so alternatively you could bring a little less gear and shorten the pitches.
P1-The most detracting pitch on the climb. Climb up the heinous 1st half of the pitch covered in moss, this is where it'll b nice to place some of your bigger gear and use your wide skills. Continue climbing the 2nd half of the pitch where it'll begin taking some smaller gear in intermediate cracks and is quite enjoyable. Belay below a bush w/ 0.75-2" gear.
P2-Perhaps the best pitch of the route, continue climbing up where you eventually climb into a "chamber" like chimney, this unique and fascinating section is one of the best parts of the climb, and something I've never seen in Red Rocks. Pull out of the chimney and climb the right facing corner (fragile rock in areas) and pull the roof. Continue climbing to the two foot wide ledge, but be aware that the belay takes 4&5" cams. Alternatively, you can keep climbing w/ a 70m rope to the huge alcove/ledge 20 ft above and belay off some trees. If you do this, you'll have to traverse 20-30 ft into the crack which is runout but easy.
P3-Diagonal up and right into the crack system and climb the crack system for as long as you can go. Another great pitch.
P4- At this point, I thought the rock quality began deteriorating for the rest of the climb. The intermediate seam was heady/exciting for both the follower and leader. The rock is good in this area, but pick your holds wisely. The placements are primarily nuts, and I wouldn't count on them holding personally. Belay in the corner, alternatively belay a little higher up before the flaring wide section on 0.75-2", uncomfortable, but you can save some of your bigger gear.
P5- Another really fun pitch, but the rock quality is not so bueno. Climb the flaring wide corner in any fashion you find desirable offwidth, squeeze chimney, stemming, and face climbing. If you don't want to run it out, then bring some 4's, 5's, and a 6. Otherwise, continue climbing and pray the holds don't snap on you :).
P6,7- Nothing special, continue climbing until you reach the bolted belay for the warrior and either rappel down or continue climbing up towards Wilson.
|By matt carpenter|
From: Las Vegas
Nov 6, 2012
Climbed this route with Robert and his description of it is good; but I just wanted to reiterate that this climb is an "adventure" route. If you are a looking for a classic Red Rock climb, this is not it. Though only rated 5.9+, it is long, steep, and sustained; and includes run-outs on rock which are at times sandy and/or crunchy, making this a very serious route that should be taken lightly.
Jan 29, 2013
Glad you guys had fun on the route! I like mossy thrutching (truly) but I see how P1 might be a bit of a downer for most folks.