|Type:||Trad, 7 pitches, 1000'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA:||Blake Herrington, Chris Weidner April 4, 2012|
|Submitted By:||Chris Weidner on Apr 14, 2012|
|Comments on Blood on the Tracks||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 15, 2012
|I've been looking at this line for years. Glad you guys had fun. Looks like a peach of a route.|
Apr 15, 2012
|Nice work, gents. Looks like fun.|
By Rob Fielding
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 5, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jumped on this thing yesterday, was excited to climb it ever since ya'll posted it up. I thought the route route was enjoyable, adventurous, stout, and bold. It's committing nature is was really brought me in, all natural belays. Retreat from any point would be somewhat difficult unless you want to leave gear. Far from a classic, but something a local in the area might want to jump on. I think the route will get better as it cleans up, but still is very fragile in a lot of areas.
As far as a rack goes, we brought doubles to 3" w/ single 4&5 w/ extra 1,2. Did a lot of leap frogging on the 1st pitch and had very spaced gear for most of the route. If I were to do it again, i'd bring single 00tcu-6" w/ double 0.3-5" and extras in 1, 2, and 3. We also climbed this route w/ a 70 m rope, so alternatively you could bring a little less gear and shorten the pitches.
P1-The most detracting pitch on the climb. Climb up the heinous 1st half of the pitch covered in moss, this is where it'll b nice to place some of your bigger gear and use your wide skills. Continue climbing the 2nd half of the pitch where it'll begin taking some smaller gear in intermediate cracks and is quite enjoyable. Belay below a bush w/ 0.75-2" gear.
P2-Perhaps the best pitch of the route, continue climbing up where you eventually climb into a "chamber" like chimney, this unique and fascinating section is one of the best parts of the climb, and something I've never seen in Red Rocks. Pull out of the chimney and climb the right facing corner (fragile rock in areas) and pull the roof. Continue climbing to the two foot wide ledge, but be aware that the belay takes 4&5" cams. Alternatively, you can keep climbing w/ a 70m rope to the huge alcove/ledge 20 ft above and belay off some trees. If you do this, you'll have to traverse 20-30 ft into the crack which is runout but easy.
P3-Diagonal up and right into the crack system and climb the crack system for as long as you can go. Another great pitch.
P4- At this point, I thought the rock quality began deteriorating for the rest of the climb. The intermediate seam was heady/exciting for both the follower and leader. The rock is good in this area, but pick your holds wisely. The placements are primarily nuts, and I wouldn't count on them holding personally. Belay in the corner, alternatively belay a little higher up before the flaring wide section on 0.75-2", uncomfortable, but you can save some of your bigger gear.
P5- Another really fun pitch, but the rock quality is not so bueno. Climb the flaring wide corner in any fashion you find desirable offwidth, squeeze chimney, stemming, and face climbing. If you don't want to run it out, then bring some 4's, 5's, and a 6. Otherwise, continue climbing and pray the holds don't snap on you :).
P6,7- Nothing special, continue climbing until you reach the bolted belay for the warrior and either rappel down or continue climbing up towards Wilson.
By matt carpenter
From: Las Vegas
Nov 6, 2012
|Climbed this route with Robert and his description of it is good; but I just wanted to reiterate that this climb is an "adventure" route. If you are a looking for a classic Red Rock climb, this is not it. Though only rated 5.9+, it is long, steep, and sustained; and includes run-outs on rock which are at times sandy and/or crunchy, making this a very serious route that should not be taken lightly.|
Jan 29, 2013
|Glad you guys had fun on the route! I like mossy thrutching (truly) but I see how P1 might be a bit of a downer for most folks.|