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 ADVANCED
Bush Shark Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Banana Split 
Big - T 
Blood In The Water 
Bush Shark Spire 
Curfew 
Feeding Frenzy 
Garden Party 
Ghost Rider 
Great White 
Hammerhead 
Mudshark Arpeggio, The 
Pantomime 
Westron Wynde 

Blood In The Water 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, Alpine, 2 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Lee Brinckerhoff and Marc Beverly
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 511
Submitted By: LeeAB on Sep 14, 2007
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Description 

Climb left out of the notch onto the scooped red wall. As the wall steepens encounter the first crux on delicate holds as you approach and pass a small roof. Once above the roof there is a great ret out left on a hold shared with Big - T, one could theoretically finish on the 3rd pitch of that route. From the rest head up and right on the steep wall with several long moves past the second crux finishing at the base of a shallow corner. Move back to the left onto the long and sustained but easier face up to the anchors above.

Approach: Find the Yucca Flower Towers and go towards to NW for 30m to gain the prominent ridge top North of the Bush Shark Spire. Rap bolts are somewhat clandestine. You will need to leave a cordalette to rap off trending climber's left to the next station with a good stance. The stance is hard to see until you're about 10m away.

Next, use a 70m rope doubled to rap in to the Bush Shark Notch, hanging some directional draws on the route as you rap in. Use a few small cams for the belayer to keep them secured into the notch for a descent belay stance.


Protection 

17 bolts protect the climbing while a few small cams blue, yellow and orange TCUs set a nice belay stance for your belayer in the notch.



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