Blood Donation Station  5.9

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  Michael LaPlante Submitted By:  Alexander Nees on Oct 31, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

The cleanest crack at Mentmore, this offwidth is also a bit of burlfest. Starting out as just barely too small to chimney, it steadily narrows down, reaching fist-size at the very top. The fact that it's just off-vertical, plus the presence of helpful crimps and footholds, keeps it at the grade. This is probably one of the safest trad leads at Mentmore if you've got the gear for it, since the rock inside the crack is really quite good. A great climb if you like it wide!

Location 

The obvious, clean, offwidth splitter in the east wall of the corridor. It's the only crack there, you can't miss it! (Between "High Stepping" and "Butter Toes")

Protection 

Bring the big guys! The top is just barely narrow enough to take a #4 C4. Everything below that is going to need 5s and 6s. In a perfect world, maybe bring C4s: 1x 4, 2x 5-6. Or just walk a single big cam all the way to the top... it's mostly 5-sized. There are no fixed anchors. If you want to TR it, either build a gear anchor, or use the bolts on either side and a gear directional.