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 ADVANCED
Vampire Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A.C.E. S 
Blood Doll S 
Bureau (Pitch 1), The S 
Chupacabra T 
Climb-Eye-Knight S 
Crack of Desperation T 
Fear of Sunlight S 
Good, The Bad, and The Jacked, The T,S 
Heart of the Narrows S 
Le Stat S 
Monkey's Sister S 
Monkey's Uncle S 
Pin Cushion S 
Stage Fright T 
That's Weak S,TR 
Trash It and Move On T,S 
Vampire, The T 
Wanker S 

Blood Doll 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: BL & Dan Levison
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 781
Submitted By: BL on Jul 12, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

Start at the anchors for Pincushion, and head up through 9 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Beware of questionable rock between bolts 4 & 5. The exposed crux moves are between bolts 7 and 9.

The name "Blood Doll" is taken from the Anne Rice vampire books and is appropriate since we witnessed a bloody bike accident after sending the route.

Protection 

9 bolts + 2 bolt anchor.


Comments on Blood Doll Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Sep 20, 2004

Funny to hear that the name is related to the bike accident. I climbed it about an hour after the crash, in one pitch from the ground (with a 60 meter you can get lowered back to the top of Pincushion, although the belayer needs to be mighty careful). It had a whole buch of quickdraws on it and a red string on the first bolt (which is always good motivation...). The climbing up top is quite fun, delicate and not very obvious.
By BL
Sep 20, 2004

AC, are you trying to imply that you did the first ascent? You did not, my anonymous friend.

First off, I redpointed the route at least a day (or days?) before Dan sent it, and we leave the tag on projects until we have both redpointed it.

Second, what the hell are you doing climbing on someone's project that has a red tag on it?

Cheers,

BobL
By Dan Levison
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 1, 2008

I lowered the crux bolt (last bolt) about a foot so it is now possible to clip before starting the deceptive crux moves. Be careful when lowering off this pitch (when linking this with Pincushion) as a 60 M rope will just make it to the Pincushion anchors.