Blondike 5.11b R
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| Type: | Trad, 7 pitches, 900 feet, Grade IV |
| Consensus: | 5.11- [details] |
| FA: | Andy Davis, Randy Baum, Doug Hemken |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | androo.daveass on Jun 11, 2008 |
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BETA PHOTO: Topo for 'Blond Ike' (5.11b R), SW face of Halfdom...
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Half Dome, South Face Closure MORE INFO >>>
Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Climbs an amazing golden dike through the steepest section of the SW face of Halfdome. Pitches 2 and 3 are stellar and will make the long approach more than worth while. See posted topo for complete beta.
The cruxes are not bolted heavily enough to make this feel like a sport climb, but there are bolts where you need them.
Location SW Face of Halfdome. 350' left of Snakedike, 50' right of the Salathe'.
Protection Cams: one each .5-#3 Camalot
Nuts: one each medium to large
Quickdraws
60m or longer
BETA PHOTO: Blond Ike, SW face of Halfdome
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BETA PHOTO: First pitches of Blond Ike as seen from the approa...
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By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 12, 2008
| Nice job putting a route on a fantastic formation.. . but did you rap bolt it. Mwhahahahaha |
By androo.daveass
From: Portland
Jun 12, 2008
| very funny...
it was all hand drilled on lead :)
-correction, we retro'ed the last bolt on pitch two after realizing we wouldn't want to run it out like it was more than once |
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Jun 13, 2008
rating: 5.10d R
| Hey Karsten. I don't think Andy has climbed with you, has he? He may not realize you are teasing us (I can't really tell)? We spent a lot of time discussing "Growing Up" while we were hiking and in camp ... but once we got to climbing, we pretty much just did what felt right for us.
Yeah, on sight, ground up, hand drilled, from stances ... mostly. While ethical purists rage about ground up versus rap bolting, reality once again intervenes and proves itself more varied than our simple theories can accommodate. Which is one of the reasons I love getting out there.
We'll have to get together in Yosemite some time! I hope your new home is treating you as well as LV did! |
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Jun 13, 2008
rating: 5.10d R
| A more detailed account of the FA can be found at the Hoofers website. |
By Papa Tendon
Jun 25, 2012
| Any idea roughly how many parties have been up this route? Mostly neglected or have people been enjoying it?
Just interested in hearing what people (beyond the FA party) thought of it. Thanks! |
By bob jensen
Mar 17, 2013
rating: 5.11a R
| I haven't even climbed Snake Dike and I've done this and 2 Hoofers. This route was really fun to me. Odd runout at the end of pitch three, but great climbing! The frontside grabs felt like I was grabbing indy with the wave/transition at my back. Stance specific.........
I went up left and above the roof at the second crux and my buddy went right under it then up. I didn't see that.
This route is the better of the two you guys have done and they are both good. THis one, real good. I like dikes.....
Thanks for the work. Sounded like a trad blast. |
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