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Half Dome
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Autobahn 
Blondike 
Eye in the Sky 
Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome 
Snake Dike 
Southwest Face, The 
Two Hoofers 

Blondike 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 900', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Andy Davis, Randy Baum, Doug Hemken
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 4,551
Submitted By: androo.daveass on Jun 11, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: Topo for 'Blond Ike' (5.11b R), SW face of Halfdom...
  • Half Dome, South Face Closure MORE INFO >>>
  • Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Climbs an amazing golden dike through the steepest section of the SW face of Halfdome. Pitches 2 and 3 are stellar and will make the long approach more than worth while. See posted topo for complete beta.
    The cruxes are not bolted heavily enough to make this feel like a sport climb, but there are bolts where you need them.


    Location 

    SW Face of Halfdome. 350' left of Snakedike, 50' right of the Salathe'.


    Protection 

    Cams: one each .5-#3 Camalot
    Nuts: one each medium to large
    Quickdraws
    60m or longer



    Photos of Blondike Slideshow Add Photo
    Blond Ike, SW face of Halfdome
    BETA PHOTO: Blond Ike, SW face of Halfdome
    First pitches of Blond Ike as seen from the approach
    BETA PHOTO: First pitches of Blond Ike as seen from the approa...
    Comments on Blondike Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Travis Hibbard
    Jun 12, 2008

    Congrats boys

    By Karsten
    From: Sacramento, CA
    Jun 12, 2008

    Nice job putting a route on a fantastic formation.. . but did you rap bolt it. Mwhahahahaha

    By androo.daveass
    From: Portland
    Jun 12, 2008

    very funny...

    it was all hand drilled on lead :)

    -correction, we retro'ed the last bolt on pitch two after realizing we wouldn't want to run it out like it was more than once

    By Doug Hemken
    Administrator
    Jun 13, 2008
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b R

    Hey Karsten. I don't think Andy has climbed with you, has he? He may not realize you are teasing us (I can't really tell)? We spent a lot of time discussing "Growing Up" while we were hiking and in camp ... but once we got to climbing, we pretty much just did what felt right for us.

    Yeah, on sight, ground up, hand drilled, from stances ... mostly. While ethical purists rage about ground up versus rap bolting, reality once again intervenes and proves itself more varied than our simple theories can accommodate. Which is one of the reasons I love getting out there.

    We'll have to get together in Yosemite some time! I hope your new home is treating you as well as LV did!

    By Doug Hemken
    Administrator
    Jun 13, 2008
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b R

    A more detailed account of the FA can be found at the Hoofers website.

    By androo.daveass
    From: Portland
    Jun 15, 2008

    it sure isn't 'Growing Up', but for a lively debate about bolting brought on by 'Blond Ike':
    www.mountainproject.com/v/northern_california/new_route_on_h>>>

    By Papa Tendon
    Jun 25, 2012

    Any idea roughly how many parties have been up this route? Mostly neglected or have people been enjoying it?

    Just interested in hearing what people (beyond the FA party) thought of it. Thanks!

    By bob jensen
    Mar 17, 2013
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c R

    I haven't even climbed Snake Dike and I've done this and 2 Hoofers. This route was really fun to me. Odd runout at the end of pitch three, but great climbing! The frontside grabs felt like I was grabbing indy with the wave/transition at my back. Stance specific.........

    I went up left and above the roof at the second crux and my buddy went right under it then up. I didn't see that.
    This route is the better of the two you guys have done and they are both good. THis one, real good. I like dikes.....

    Thanks for the work. Sounded like a trad blast.