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 ADVANCED
The "Gimme Some" Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Amar-EZ TR 
Blonde Ambition TR 
Easy Blondes TR 
Hollow Headed Blondes TR 
Mr. Blond TR 
Should I Stay Or Should I Go? TR 

Blonde Ambition 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Kristina Bergdahl, Nick Martel
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall to Spring, early Summer mornings.
Page Views: 441
Submitted By: NickMartel on Sep 20, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: "Blonde Ambition" heads up the face on t...

Description 

10' of low angle easy start (sub 5.5) to 20-25' 5.7ish middle section to 10-15' 5.8 vertical crux. Volcanic rock with some pockets, a nice flake, and sharp crimpers. You can move off route a little to change grade either up or down.

Location 

Center of the east face. starts approximately 6' right of 5' tall phallic shaped saguaro. Starts on steeper rock between lower angle rock on either side. Up through bulge, then straight up/right for 5.8 crux or 2-4' left or right for 5.7.

Protection 

Top rope chain anchor. We will eventually drill for lead once we finish the rest of the TR anchors on the dome. You can top rope directly off the chains but you can lessen rope drag by extending the anchors with shoulder length (or longer) slings without missing out on good climbing because it is low angle from the top of the crux section to the chains.


Photos of Blonde Ambition Slideshow Add Photo
Kristina getting the FA by flashlight as the sun s...
Kristina getting the FA by flashlight as the sun s...

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By NickMartel
From: Tucson, Arizona
Sep 22, 2011

CONDITION REPORT 
I (and a few people who have come out with me) have cleaned a lot of loose rock off the face. 95% of it is gone. A little traffic and the last 5% will come off but for the time being have your belayer stand a bit off to the side NOT directly nder you. Since the walll is entirely TR for the time being makeing falls <1' the WORST thing that can happen if a handhold or foothold comes off is for it to land on your belayer.

PM me any questions, ideas, recomendations, thoughts, ect...

Climb Safe, Have Fun.