Blonde Ambition  5.8

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Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet Consensus:  5.8 [details] FA:  Kristina Bergdahl, Nick Martel New Route:  Yes Season:  Fall to Spring, early Summer mornings. Submitted By:  NickMartel on Sep 20, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: "Blonde Ambition" heads up the face on the right h...

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Description 

10' of low angle easy start (sub 5.5) to 20-25' 5.7ish middle section to 10-15' 5.8 vertical crux. Volcanic rock with some pockets, a nice flake, and sharp crimpers. You can move off route a little to change grade either up or down.

Location 

Center of the east face. starts approximately 6' right of 5' tall phallic shaped saguaro. Starts on steeper rock between lower angle rock on either side. Up through bulge, then straight up/right for 5.8 crux or 2-4' left or right for 5.7.

Protection 

Top rope chain anchor. We will eventually drill for lead once we finish the rest of the TR anchors on the dome. You can top rope directly off the chains but you can lessen rope drag by extending the anchors with shoulder length (or longer) slings without missing out on good climbing because it is low angle from the top of the crux section to the chains.

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Kristina getting the FA by flashlight as the sun s...