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(09) The Far Side II
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Blonde Ambition 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Deborah Evans, Bernard Moret
Page Views: 418
Submitted By: Monomaniac on May 16, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Description 

This challenging line ascends a thin seam of excellent limestone with challenging footwork. Its possible to make things easier by using the larger crack three feet right of the main line. For full-value, use all of your thin-crack skills, pasting and rand-smearing your feet. After the 4th bolt, things get a lot easier with great crimps and face holds.


Location 

Furthes N route at the Far Side II, just a bit north of the Pizza Slab.


Protection 

6 Bolts, 2 BA.



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By Dave Wachter
Aug 29, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I used the crack to the right near the start. Maybe I'm chicken, but at least I'm not chicken hamburger. Another Palomas cheese-grater fest.

By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Sep 4, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I thought this was a lot of fun, one of the highlights of my first visit to Palomas. I used the crack on the right and it seemed like 11a (as per the online guide).

By Dave Wachter
Sep 15, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Yeah, I'd consider this a good 11a. The crack is just too obvious and tempting to ignore, and I think it's the more natural line. Going left into the skittery feet and awkward handholds down low seems rather contrived to me. Mid-section climbs oh so nice.

By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Oct 8, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Come on now this is Palomas, part of the game is ignoring those tempting looking cracks so you can crux out on slippery footholds. I actually really liked this one, one of my favorite Palomas 11's. Remember the hard to see jug at the 4th bolt. It is only easy to see once you're past it.

By Dave Wachter
Dec 22, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Palomas is not about overcoming temptation. If that's what you're looking for, go out to a disco with your girlfriend's hot-like-curry sister and fight her off when she asks you to dance (and get all kinds of bleeding wounds in the process, to make the analogy complete). The best Palomas routes give you a simple line with a challenging natural progression. Eliminate problems on natural stone suck.