Start at the right side of the cave where the cave pinches off. More intimidating to look at than to actually do. Climb up the dihedral to the overhang. Passing the second bolt is a scary, but surprisingly easy layback move. Once you get up into the corner under the roof there's a really nice rest to be had with good feet. Take the hand traverse to the right and turn the roof. Standing up on the ledge outside the roof and going for the anchors is a little nervy, too, but again, more of a headgame than anything.
Quickdraws. 2-Bolt Anchor.
|By Dave Wachter|
May 25, 2008
Kind of funky up the corner. Plenty of choss, some of it glued. I'd call it hard 5.10 (not 5.10-), but hey, it's Big Block.
From: Albuquerque New Mexico
Mar 5, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
If you rope solo this as a lead (I did), bring a prussik or two, or maybe an ascender to get positioned to remove the quickdraw under the roof. I spent more time and energy getting my shit back than I did climbing the route. Could have avoided the hassel with a pair of Purcell Prussiks. Hindsight...
There's a really pretty clam fossil embedded in the wall at the hand traverse, too:)
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jun 2, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I think this is one of the better leads at the crag. Definitely scarier looking that it actually turns out to be.