Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Bouldering Cave
Select Route:
Baseball Problem, The 
Blockade S,TR 
Football Problem 
Jew Claw, The 
Low low start (aka Desperation) 
Murray Pinch 
Pegboard 
Reachy sidepulls? 
V8 

Blockade 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Marc Beverly and Randall Gann (bolted on lead)
Page Views: 1,152
Submitted By: RiggerMortis on Oct 10, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

Start at the right side of the cave where the cave pinches off. More intimidating to look at than to actually do. Climb up the dihedral to the overhang. Passing the second bolt is a scary, but surprisingly easy layback move. Once you get up into the corner under the roof there's a really nice rest to be had with good feet. Take the hand traverse to the right and turn the roof. Standing up on the ledge outside the roof and going for the anchors is a little nervy, too, but again, more of a headgame than anything.

Protection 

Quickdraws. 2-Bolt Anchor.


Comments on Blockade Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dave Wachter
May 25, 2008

Kind of funky up the corner. Plenty of choss, some of it glued. I'd call it hard 5.10 (not 5.10-), but hey, it's Big Block.
By RiggerMortis
From: Albuquerque New Mexico
Mar 5, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

If you rope solo this as a lead (I did), bring a prussik or two, or maybe an ascender to get positioned to remove the quickdraw under the roof. I spent more time and energy getting my shit back than I did climbing the route. Could have avoided the hassel with a pair of Purcell Prussiks. Hindsight...

There's a really pretty clam fossil embedded in the wall at the hand traverse, too:)
By Robin
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jun 2, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I think this is one of the better leads at the crag. Definitely scarier looking that it actually turns out to be.