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Black and Tan
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Block Party 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Tim Wagner and Boone Speed
Page Views: 54
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Jan 3, 2014

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In critical habitat area for the Desert Tortoise

Description 

It completely amazes me that the legendary Boone Speed took the time to establish this forgetable line. My theory is that he needed something warm for a belay slave to climb while he worked some burly project in the adjacent caves. This route, and the two lines to it's left (that make up "The Annex") have but one thing going for them: they remain in the sun for a few hours after the rest of crag is in the shade.

Begin above jumbled boulders, and do the crux to gain the route. If you're able to pull off the ground, the rest of the route will be trivial. Wander past bushes and choss for a while to reach a poor anchor.

Location 

On the far left end of the Black and Tan massif (only a few feet above the wash that runs between the cliff and the road) is a small alcove of mungy rock. This is the right-most, and longest, of three routes in this alcove.

Protection 

Around 5 bolts to a poor 2-bolt anchor. Bring some quicklinks if you do this to fix the anchor.


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