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Beer and Smear 
Block Dance 
Cripple Crack 
Fantasy Land 
Fear and Smear 
Seaweed Patch 

Block Dance 

5.7

   
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Type: Trad, 60 feet
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
FA: Paul Clark 1983
Submitted By: SaraB on Dec 18, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

Left facing hand and finger crack that traverses under two roofs, following to the left.


Location 

Starts behind a small bush towards the southern most edge of this wall (before it dips back into a shady treed area). There's an obvious block that looks ready to go at any moment... it's been there for awhile though.


Protection 

Gear to 1.5"



Comments on Block Dance Add Comment
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By gregybn
Feb 7, 2008

Paul was the MAN for a lot of years... a great trad climber who put up some real classics. The regular Fernie folks had a lot of fun climbing (and drinking beer) with him.
Block Dance was always a fun warm-up for other stuff around.
I put in Dance Direct... a few thin, bolt protected moves straight up the face, after the "block"... exit right to the crack when you start feeling insecure... I think the variation was rated 10a?

By Dan Bachen
Mar 1, 2011

great route but the hornet convention at the top was a little problematic