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 ADVANCED
Holds Up Bluff North
Select Route:
Beer and Smear T,TR 
Block Dance T 
Cripple Crack T 
Fantasy Land T,S,TR 
Fear and Smear T,TR 
Seaweed Patch T,S,TR 

Block Dance 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Paul Clark 1983
Page Views: 455
Submitted By: SaraB on Dec 18, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

Left facing hand and finger crack that traverses under two roofs, following to the left.

Location 

Starts behind a small bush towards the southern most edge of this wall (before it dips back into a shady treed area). There's an obvious block that looks ready to go at any moment... it's been there for awhile though.

Protection 

Gear to 1.5"


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By gregybn
Feb 7, 2008

Paul was the MAN for a lot of years... a great trad climber who put up some real classics. The regular Fernie folks had a lot of fun climbing (and drinking beer) with him.
Block Dance was always a fun warm-up for other stuff around.
I put in Dance Direct... a few thin, bolt protected moves straight up the face, after the "block"... exit right to the crack when you start feeling insecure... I think the variation was rated 10a?
By Dan Bachen
Mar 1, 2011

great route but the hornet convention at the top was a little problematic