The seasonal raptor closure is in effect February 1, 2013 through July 31, 2013 at Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
The Blob Rock Area has some of the finest climbing in Boulder Canyon. Located on the sunny north side of the canyon, it's a great place to climb in cooler weather. There is something for all climbers: multi-pitch trad climbs, runout face climbs, and modern sport routes.
Many of the older routes are a bit runout; they were established at a time when bolting wasn't a popular option for dealing with scary climbing. Most of the modern routes, however, have bolts where necessary to protect difficult moves.
This area is often closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31. However, in 2006 the climbing ban was lifted early, and the area was reopened to climbing in early March. Signs are posted at the trailhead informing climbers of the current status of the raptor closure.
The area is composed of several formations: the main rocks are Blob Rock and East Blob; two smaller rocks are Little Blob and Small Package Block.
Blob Rock is a large and complex formation with many routes. It is the home of multi-pitch trad routes like Where Eagles Dare (10b PG-13) and On Ballet (9), bolts-plus-gear testpieces like Radlands of Infinity (13a) and Bearcat Goes to Hollywood (11d), and modern sport routes like Bolt Cola (10a) and Vasodilator (13a).
East Blob has some old, runout face climbs like A Hike With Ludwig Dude (10a R), and some well-bolted sport routes like The Young and the Rackless (9), A Hike for Y2K (11d), and The Ticket (12a).
Little Blob is a small rock below the main face of Blob Rock, and has a few more difficult sport routes like Lost and Found (12a).
Small Package Block is a small rock up and left of Blob Rock, and has a few short trad and sport routes. Wake 'n Bake (10a, sport) is a lot of fun.
Getting There
Park in a small pullout on the right, just past Cob Rock. This is about 6.7 miles up the canyon.
A trail begins from the right side of the pullout. Follow it as it zig-zags up the hill. It will take you to the base of the Main Wall of Blob Rock in about 10 or 15 minutes.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Blob Rock Area:
This is an excellent route with great climbing on good rock. It is slightly overhanging with two distinct crux headwalls separate by a good ledge/ramp. The variety of finger locks, jugs, crimps and slopers require good footwork, body position, and endurance.The Ticket is located in Boulder Canyon, at the Upper East Face of Blob Rock, up the grassy gully between East Blob and Bitty Buttress. (Not the gully next to Blob Rock with Jolt Cola, Vasodilator, ?Conan?...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
Condition report As of 5/23/09, the raptor closure on Blob Rock has been lifted, and the area is now open to climbing. The eagles did not nest there this year, and the Forest Service lifted the closure early.
Has anyone climbed the route under the giant roof between Dike Wall and West Butress? The one route that goes under the roof is called "Bad Girls Dream" and according to the new guide book, it's a 10a. It's the only 5.10 in the canyon I have not been able to climb. (Had to downclimb it, not easy in a horizontal roof.) Does anyone know if the 10a rating in the new GB is an error, or have any general info about this line?
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Apr 8, 2010
Forest Service Reopens Climbing Areas in Boulder Canyon www.fs.fed.us/r2/arnf/ Contact: Maribeth Pecotte, (303) 541-2500
Boulder, Colo. (April 2, 2010) – The Forest Service has reopened some climbing areas in Boulder Canyon that were closed to protect golden eagles during their nesting season.
Security Risk and the Blob Rock/Bitty Buttress areas are now open to climbing and other activities. These areas are located along State Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.
These closures help protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory, including valuable alternate nest sites. Although these areas are being reopened, the Forest Service anticipates reinstating the closures in future years, to allow the eagles to choose their nest site without being disturbed.
The Eagle Rock area remains closed to climbing and other activities and is expected to remain closed through July 31. Signs will be posted at key access points into the areas remaining closed. Volunteers and Forest Service personnel will continue to monitor the areas.
Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure information will be available online at local climbing websites and at www.fs.usda.gov/arp (click on Recreation). Closures are effective from Feb. 1 through July 31. Volunteers and Forest Service personnel will monitor the areas, and some areas may be reopened prior to July 31.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Jan 27, 2011
From Bev Baker, Wildlife Biologist:
The Boulder Ranger District of the Arapaho & Roosevelt National Forests will implement its annual area closures at Security Risk, Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress in Boulder Canyon beginning Feb. 1.
These areas are located along State Highway 119 approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls. Happy Hour, Bihedral, and Riviera will remain open, as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The closures help protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory, including vital alternate nest sites. Undisturbed access to multiple nest sites is important for birds of prey, especially early in the nesting season, to give them a chance to visit multiple nests during courtship and to select a site for the season, free of human influence.
Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure information will be available online at local climbing websites and at www.fs.usda.gov/arp (click on Recreation). Closures are effective from Feb. 1 through July 31. Volunteers and Forest Service personnel will monitor the areas, and some areas may be reopened prior to July 31.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Jan 26, 2012
From Bev Baker, Wildlife Biologist, Boulder Ranger District:
Boulder, Colo. (January 25, 2012) – The Boulder Ranger District of the Arapaho & Roosevelt National Forests will implement its annual area closures at Security Risk, Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress in Boulder Canyon beginning February 1. These areas are located along State Highway 119 approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls. Happy Hour, Bihedral, and Riviera will remain open, as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The closures help protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory, including vital alternate nest sites. Undisturbed access to multiple nest sites is important for birds of prey, especially early in the nesting season, to give them a chance to visit multiple nests during courtship and to select a site for the season, free of human influence.
Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure information will be available online at local climbing websites and at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation (click on Boulder Canyon for more info). Closures are effective from February 1 through July 31. Volunteers and Forest Service personnel will monitor the areas, and some areas may be reopened prior to July 31.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Jan 30, 2013
From the USFS:
Boulder, Colo. (Jan, 30 2013)– The Boulder Ranger District of the Arapaho & Roosevelt National Forests will implement its annual area closures at Security Risk, Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress in Boulder Canyon beginning February 1.
These areas are located along State Highway 119 approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls. Happy Hour, Bihedral, and Riviera will remain open, as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The closures help protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory, including vital alternate nest sites. Undisturbed access to multiple nest sites is important for birds of prey, especially early in the nesting season, to give them a chance to visit multiple nests during courtship and to select a site for the season, free of human influence.
Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure information will be available online at local climbing websites and at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation (click on Boulder Canyon for more info). Closures are effective from February 1 through July 31. Volunteers and Forest Service personnel will monitor the areas, and some areas may be reopened prior to July 31.
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