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 ADVANCED
West Slabs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
1978 Bracksieck/Mallow Route T 
BLM (aka, Bolt Like Mad) S 
Hwan Kap T,TR 
Left-facing Dihedral T 
Shaft, The S 
Tin Can Arete T,TR 
Unknown 2nd 9 T,S 
Unknown 5 T,S 
Unknown 7+ T,S 
Unknown 9 T,S 
Unknown 9+ T,S 

BLM (aka, Bolt Like Mad) 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Tod Anderson and Richard Wright, 1990
Page Views: 538
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on May 15, 2001

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Kurt Smith route, The Shaft, and Bolt Like Mad.

Description 

BLM had been partially developed well before 1990, but this history has been nearly impossible to uncover. BLM got its sardonic name from that arch government worker and walking radiation hazard, Tod Anderson. It was fully bolted in the summer of 1990 and is presently the best line on the crag.

Climbing on BLM begins on the vertical to just-ever-so-slightly-past-vertical main face on the left side of the crag and behind a large conifer. Thin and technical all the way, BLM has a tricky crux 15 or so feet below the anchor. Very fingery and with bad feet, lousy really. Two stars for the good stone, high degree of continuity, and thoughtful climbing. Worth the drive on a hot summer day.


Protection 

QDs only. This 70 foot route needs 8 - 9 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.



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