|j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Aria) - The Seasons (The Spring)
Blistered Toe is a fun, steeper-than-it-looks pitch of climbing with two starts. To keep the grade at 5.8, start at obvious (but somewhat suspect) flakes about 10 feet left of the crack, climb up 10-15 feet, and traverse right towards the crack. Climbing the crack directly from the ground ups the ante to 5.9+. Climb the crack above, with some jamming and stemming, to a large ledge, and traverse left to a fixed anchor in a right-facing corner.
P2 is loose and possibly inobviously wet - not recommended! Diagonal up right via 5.4 face climbing, to the path of least resistance up to a large overhang (5.6, loose); traverse left here, then pull past the overhang to easier rock. P3 climbs easier rock to the top.
By a tree, below an obvious crack about 100 feet right of the Seasons (e.g The Spring (P1)).
There are two bolts at the left end of the large ledge atop P1, and slings on a tree at the GT / clifftop.
Standard rack, up to a #3 Camalot.
The right-facing corner below th...
Blistered Toe, direct start (5.9+(+)).
looking down the 1st pitch
looks dirty and wet, b...
|Comments on Blistered Toe
From: North Kingstown, RI
Jul 9, 2009
The direct start is a fun bouldering move with little fingers. There really is no sense in putting in pro until you make the move and get the good hand to the left. I thought it was pretty hard but what Gunks 5.9+ isn't?
May 31, 2010
I led the first two pitches of this route (regular start) two days ago. Williams rates the first pitch at 5.7, and I'm not sure any move is harder than that, but this sucker is sustained and steep! I thought it just kept coming at you, and I was pumped after this 70 foot pitch. I heard later that Swain calls it a 5.8, which made me feel a bit better about it. I saw no sign of wetness on P2, but there is a big collection of rock that looks perilously loose in the middle of the open book on that pitch. I found the loose stuff easy to avoid, however, and I thought the pitch was nice enough for the grade. Since there is a bolted anchor just to the left of where the first pitch ends, I think most people will just rap after one pitch.
Jun 1, 2010
I followed a partner who's a lot taller than me recently - there are several moves that taller folks can make at 5.7, but for shorter folks who have to move up on less-ideal feet - combined with the steep - it's definitely a notch harder.