Bliss  5.10d

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Consensus:  5.10c/d [details] FA:  Submitted By:  caughtinside on Jul 5, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Raptor Nesting MORE INFO >>> On June 16, 2012, a nest with chicks was noticed on the ledge at the end of the second pitch of Touch and Go. Please take care to avoid disturbing the nest and avoid climbing routes from Touch and Go south to the left side of the Cannibal Gully (such as Inner Recess, Rambo Crack, and Bourbon Street) until the chicks fledge. Fledging can happen early, but typical seasonal closures extend until September 1st or later. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Bliss, aka Bliss of the Knife is an excellent thin crack splitting the large face halfway up black wall, in between cannibal gully on the left and One Hand Clapping on the right.

Originally a 1960's A3 nailing route, this pitch has evolved into a finger locking, thin jamming and layback seam.

You must access the pitch from below, via One Hand and step left onto the face to some belay bolts. It is also possible to climb into this route via Bliss Direct, a mixed 5.12 route (the start of the original aid line.) The upper anchor is bolts below the overhang. It is possible to rap into it for a toprope (as I did) by rapping in from Lizard Ledge. Be sure to backclip the rappel and tie knots in the rope, it is difficult to swing into the anchor.

Location 

See Description. It is also possible to climb in and set up a TR by climbing in from the left (corner above Overhanging Hangover) and traversing in below the big overhang.

Protection 

THIN. Please keep in mind I toproped this route. That said, I think it would be a safe lead if you have adequate thin gear. Remember this is an old nailing route, there are good slots for small nuts, and places for small cams. Climb at your own risk.