This route, originally put up on natural gear by Rich Bechler (must have had massive cantaloupes), is a lesson sandbagging. Since the route has been aggressively labeled a "squeeze job" (fun on a friday night?), and it lacks discernable natural placements at the crux, it was long forgotten and was subsequently covered in bird sh*t, lichen, and broken rock.
Recently rediscovered, and bolted, it took some "serious" Mountain Project community involvement to figure out the route's roots. Many holds were broken in the process of cleaning the route - the instability of the original rock further confirms that Rich was more of a man than all of us internet types put together. The crux sequences now rely on smaller, albeit trustworthy holds. Expect a large fall at the crux, and (if you're sane and choose to clip the bolts) hang a long draw from the fourth bolt. By WI standards, some may still refuse to give this anything harder than 5.6+++, but the rest of the Nation would probably put it somewhere in the 12+ range.
For credit, Nathan Nelson managed to put together the second-FA/whatever you want to call it now. A solid effort to bolt, clean, and send. Props to both Rich and Nathan.
For all the haters who want to call us "squeeze jobbers" - this route sits between a bird sh*t encrusted chimney (enjoy hantavirus) and a chossy, 4th class slab. So yes, there are "routes" in close proximity. No, they're not all worthwhile. Figure it out for yourself.
First bolted line left of Whiskey.
7 bolts (glue ins) tp chains. The fourth bolt is almost invisible from the ground- clip this with an extendable draw - 18 or 24" to avoid heinous rope drag. The loose blocks above the fourth bolt are now stable - we sealed the back of them with some concrete.
I think this may have been a Bechler route. See this comment under "Ten High":
Also we did a route just to the right of Ten High called Blinded by lust.Which is 5.11+ and named after a certain redheaded girl that Steve,Andy,myself,the US Navy and countless others where dating at the sametime.On my 1st attempt I ripped 2 pins and hit the ground.Thankfully the only clear spot on the ground and then bouncing up and backflipping over pigs in space who was acting as a human bouldering pad.I finally succeeded on the route and the redhead just sucked seed. Note to Steve thanks for not killing me that summer and staying friends!
I dunno if it's a Bechler route - there are more than a few ways to avoid the crux... certainly not 5.11 now - a lot of small but really helpful holds broke during the cleaning and first attempts. Didn't look like it had ever been climbed before due to the amount of weak rock we had to pull off of there.
Dave Groth suggested I look into putting up the line... said "i'm surprised no one has done that thing yet"... since he knows the history of the area (ahem... whiskey?), i figure it's a reliable guess.
i've got footage of nathan crushing the route - i'll post that up soon.
Heh, heh, Kieth I just don't understand why the hell you find junk like this so enjoyable. Contrived eliminate that is shedding holds left and right?!?!? That just doesn't sound like any 4 star route I've ever heard of! However, it seems like you certainly liked it and you are entitled to your opinion of course.
Now my opinion... You admit that this is an eliminate and that, that is ok because this is Wisconsin. I would like to clarify the eliminate situation as I see it in WI to any outsiders that might see this. We DO in fact climb many eliminates most of which are at DL. I am not aware of any others outside DL besides this one and some stragglers I'm not thinking of. Sure, we TR eliminates for something extra to do but this seems to be the first ever BOLTED eliminate in the state unless of course you include Kieth's other route Pretty Piece of Flesh at this same crag. Are there bolted eliminates elsewhere I'm not aware of?
These routes seem to me to be bolted for the sake of bolting. Why not just TR it and call it day? Was it really necessary to lead it?
Of course there is no current problem with bolting this route besides my personal distaste for it. However, what if we bolted every damn eliminate at Necedah!?!? Couldn't anyone see that causing problems in the future?
My argument is that bolting can cause access issues by several means, some asshole calls the cops cause they see you defacing a "natural feature", the bolts bring the crowds because now they can climb conveniently and without much gear which puts environmental impact on the area, more accidents happen because more people come and are willing to get in over their heads because the bolt will save them. Frankly, I don't really care if these things happen or what some citizen asshole thinks about climbers but I do see it as possibly threating mine and others opportunity to climb at these places. Google Roadside Crag in RRG for proof.
By all means lets bolt what "should" be bolted but I'm sorry I just don't think this one would have qualified in most people's eyes.
Nothing personal Kieth, just my opinion here. I'm just trying to see other people's perspective on this stuff cause I simply don't get it. So far, no harm no foul on this route or the others but I think this is something for people to think about. If it was personal I would go chop this thing and you would have to fly back to fix it! But, I wouldn't do that as this isn't personal ;)
Flame away! And if the admin sees fit to move this to the forum by all means please do so. If anyone out there is sick of the bolting debate then DON'T READ IT! GO CLIMBING!
To all who have not yet climbed this route: This is a fun route to climb! I find it to be a worthy addition to the area and think more people should get on it. Stout climbing until you clip the 4th bolt. Then you get awarded with awesome cruiser .10 hidden jug reaches to the anchors and a great view! I think the grade is fair if you follow the bolt line.
... The line goes just fine as it is bolted. If people feel as though this is an eliminate route, try using the chimney to the right and I guarantee you'll find it awkward where as following the suggested line in the description (above) goes quite smoothly, is hard yet fun! To me an eliminate route is a route in which one gets heckled by the peanut gallery below because the climber accidentally used a hold designated to another route sardined next to it; this isn't the case here. Every route I've ever climbed has a suggested beta similar to that which is provided for this route. If one is seeking that grade of climbing, then stay on the face as suggested. If people think the route is contrived then they have not climbed the route. Plain and simple, don't knock it until you try it first ...
To all who have climbed this route: Did you enjoy the climb? If for whatever reason you did not like the climb, please provide your honest opinion as to why you do not like the route. Thanks!
Haven't looked at this since it was posted last year. After reading the comments, sounds like you are trying to claim an FA of a route Rich Bechler did decades ago. The only rock right of Ten High before you hit Whiskey Chimney, is what you are climbing on. Therefore making the climb "Blinded by Lust" 5.11+ FA Rich Bechler.
You mention lots of cleaning and ripping small holds off. I've thought many things were FAs here in WI, only to find out they had been done 5-10 years ago. The amount of dirt and wear on a climb can become a lot over 5-10 years, making this "seem" like an FA.
You also mention it being harder than 5.11+. But in the video you mention how WI is full of Sandbags....Rich being one of the biggest sandbaggers.
Also, Bechler already led this on gear. So why claim an FA on a climb someone already did. Why not give Rich the credit he deserves.
If Bechler did this, awesome. Holds have broken (Nathan almost decked when he dropped the fourth clip due to a critical hold snapping). In that case, it's the re-FA, and we're not guilty for making a "squeeze job", i.e. blame bechler. If he didn't do it like this, then Nathan is the Man with a plan and, in my opinion, it's really good movement on some hard holds!
Either way, isn't internet controversy like, so fun? LMAO. XXOX.
Nothing wrong with climbing a squeeze job, or posting it. I think the controversy here is that you bolted a squeeze job that most likely was already climbed and on gear to boot, then claimed the FA, and changed the name of the climb.
If holds broke off, this could be a re-ascent, but the name of the climb should not be altered. "Blinded by Lust" was the name given to it by the FA and that is what it should be called.
Blinded by Lust 5.11+
FA - Rich Bechler FA after holds broke - Keith Hengen, Nathan Nelson
Nice video punters. After watchin the vid and carefull scrutinization I have to declare that this is the climb that Rich Prunes Bechler led and called Blinded By Lust .It was named after a certain young redheaded strumpet that "Andy,myself,Rich and the entire US Navy had their way with"...to quote old Prunes.Rich showed me this climb after the fa and tried to get me to do the 2nd ascent but I could tell it was a typical prunes sandbag.I opted fer a tr instead and thought it was at least 5.12a(old school) which would probably translate to the grade that it is given now(new school?)As fer holds breakin off it is sandstone after all which is notoriously weak,especially Wisconsin sandstone.It doesn't take long at Necedah for dirt to acumulate and it probably hasnt been climbed in years(hence the dirt)as it doesn't have much gear. It was a proud effort on Prunes part to lead this on gear. As fer the bolts,its not my call because I know there are quite a few climbs at Necedah that Myself and Rich led that are now sporting bolts. C'est La Vie? peace and fuk-nes steve s.
Damn Keith. By your "new" description of this old-school route, you seem pretty pissed that you had to change the information. It was nice to see that you could stay mature and write a decent description of the route without any bias towards anyone.