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Amphitheater
Routes Sorted
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Arms Control S 
Black and Blue Velvet S 
Blind Prophet S 
Born to Crimp S 
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Cow Patty Bingo T 
Crackin' Up T 
Dihedral Route T,TR 
Henar Lite S 
I'm Flyin' TR 
Mild Mannered Secretary S 
Mr. Henar S 
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Single Handed Sailor S 
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Too Old to Rock and Roll TR 
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When Shrimp Learn to Whistle S 

Blind Prophet 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,769
Submitted By: Bennett Harris on Mar 9, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Jason Philippi leading Blind Prophet (12c). Photo ...

Description 

Climb the technical and flaring dihedral just right of the smooth face with swirls in the rock (Black and Blue Velvet). Pull the first roof then continue through steep jugs to an upper head wall where a thin crux awaits. This route is one of the best at Pilot.

Location 

Ampitheater

Protection 

7 bolts


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By Cragmama
From: North Carolina
May 19, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13

A half inch piece can protect the runout exiting the dihedral.
By Trevor V.
From: Santa Barbara, Ca
Jul 3, 2013
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

More sustained and a harder head wall crux than Mr. Henar. Less overall strength and power required. The runout exiting the dihedral seems a bit dangerous because of the bolt placement, which would surely have you swinging hard into the wall. That said the climbing through there is relatively easy.
By Graham Beck
From: Charlotte, North Carolina
May 24, 2014

This route has new permadraws after the fourth bolt all the way up to the new permadraw chains. This makes one of my personal favorite hard routes at pilot safer and a lot more accessible to get all the way to the top.
By Edward Medina
Administrator
From: Ridgway, CO
May 26, 2014

How does the permadraw make it safer? Are the bolts poorly positioned?
By ABG
From: Winston-Salem, NC
May 27, 2014

The bolts were perfectly safe and not very hard to clean. There is no reason for the permadraws.
By Edward Medina
Administrator
From: Ridgway, CO
May 28, 2014

Were these put in with the permission of the park? If not this is one of those things that could harm climber relations.
By Kurt Fischer
Apr 6, 2015

I haven't seen any discussion about the three variations to the top of this route:

1. The variation around the left side of the arete at the top, using jugs and then traverse over to the anchors and clip. (Easiest)

2. The variation using thin crimps on the upper headwall, going straight up, traverse a little to the anchors and clip. (Was the most difficult IMO)

3. The variation trending directly towards anchors on crimps and a chossy side pull to some sloppy jugs that finish right at the chains. (read below)

Anyways... On Sunday I ripped off the chossy side-pull on Variation #3 and it hit me in the head on the way down. I tried it again without the hold and it seems a lot harder now. I know glue is an uncommon practice, but if anyone can't live without that hold on that silly variation... Then I still have the hold in my possession, feel free to glue it back on. I think it may actually be harder to go this way now without and created an interesting new sequence.


Choss
Choss
By ShockSLL
From: Charlotte, NC
Apr 7, 2015

I think the 12b line is your variation #2. I think there used to be a 12c line similar to your #3 but holds have broken over the years and I am unsure that line still exists.
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