Climb the technical and flaring dihedral just right of the smooth face with swirls in the rock (Black and Blue Velvet). Pull the first roof then continue through steep jugs to an upper head wall where a thin crux awaits. This route is one of the best at Pilot.
From: North Carolina
May 19, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b PG13
A half inch piece can protect the runout exiting the dihedral.
|By Trevor V.|
From: Santa Barbara, Ca
Jul 3, 2013
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b
More sustained and a harder head wall crux than Mr. Henar. Less overall strength and power required. The runout exiting the dihedral seems a bit dangerous because of the bolt placement, which would surely have you swinging hard into the wall. That said the climbing through there is relatively easy.