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Amphitheater
Routes Sorted
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Arms Control S 
Black and Blue Velvet S 
Blind Prophet S 
Buzzard's Breath TR 
Cow Patty Bingo T 
Crackin' Up T 
Dihedral Route T,TR 
I'm Flyin' TR 
Mild Mannered Secretary S 
Mr. Henar S 
Mrs. Henar S 
Overhang Hangover S 
Pole Dancing S 
Single Handed Sailor S 
Surry County Ethics T,S 
Syzygy T,S 
Too Old to Rock and Roll TR 
Turkey Shoot S 
When Shrimp Learn to Whistle S 

Blind Prophet 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,090
Submitted By: Bennett Harris on Mar 9, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Description 

Climb the technical and flaring dihedral just right of the smooth face with swirls in the rock (Black and Blue Velvet). Pull the first roof then continue through steep jugs to an upper head wall where a thin crux awaits. This route is one of the best at Pilot.


Location 

Ampitheater


Protection 

7 bolts



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By Cragmama
From: North Carolina
May 19, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13

A half inch piece can protect the runout exiting the dihedral.

By Trevor V.
From: Santa Barbara, Ca
Jul 3, 2013
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

More sustained and a harder head wall crux than Mr. Henar. Less overall strength and power required. The runout exiting the dihedral seems a bit dangerous because of the bolt placement, which would surely have you swinging hard into the wall. That said the climbing through there is relatively easy.

By Graham Beck
From: Charlotte, North Carolina
May 24, 2014

This route has new permadraws after the fourth bolt all the way up to the new permadraw chains. This makes one of my personal favorite hard routes at pilot safer and a lot more accessible to get all the way to the top.

By Edward Medina
Administrator
From: Brighton, CO
May 26, 2014

How does the permadraw make it safer? Are the bolts poorly positioned?

By ABG
From: Winston-Salem, NC
May 27, 2014

The bolts were perfectly safe and not very hard to clean. There is no reason for the permadraws.

By Edward Medina
Administrator
From: Brighton, CO
May 28, 2014

Were these put in with the permission of the park? If not this is one of those things that could harm climber relations.