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Blind Prophet 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b PG13

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
Page Views: 1,517
Submitted By: Bennett Harris on Mar 9, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Jason Philippi leading Blind Prophet (12c). Photo ...


Climb the technical and flaring dihedral just right of the smooth face with swirls in the rock (Black and Blue Velvet). Pull the first roof then continue through steep jugs to an upper head wall where a thin crux awaits. This route is one of the best at Pilot.




7 bolts

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By Cragmama
From: North Carolina
May 19, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13

A half inch piece can protect the runout exiting the dihedral.
By Trevor V.
From: Santa Barbara, Ca
Jul 3, 2013
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

More sustained and a harder head wall crux than Mr. Henar. Less overall strength and power required. The runout exiting the dihedral seems a bit dangerous because of the bolt placement, which would surely have you swinging hard into the wall. That said the climbing through there is relatively easy.
By Graham Beck
From: Charlotte, North Carolina
May 24, 2014

This route has new permadraws after the fourth bolt all the way up to the new permadraw chains. This makes one of my personal favorite hard routes at pilot safer and a lot more accessible to get all the way to the top.
By Edward Medina
From: Ridgway, CO
May 26, 2014

How does the permadraw make it safer? Are the bolts poorly positioned?
From: Winston-Salem, NC
May 27, 2014

The bolts were perfectly safe and not very hard to clean. There is no reason for the permadraws.
By Edward Medina
From: Ridgway, CO
May 28, 2014

Were these put in with the permission of the park? If not this is one of those things that could harm climber relations.
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