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North Face of Pike's Peak
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
66 Years of Fun 
Blind Assumption T 
Blind Luck T 
Ole 6, The T 
Right Couloir of Three Little Pigs (Flying W) 
Total Abandon T 
Y Couloir 

Blind Luck 

WI4 M5

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 5 pitches, 400', Grade III
Consensus: WI4 M5 [details]
FA:  Erik Wellborn and Phil Wortmann, Fall 2012
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall to Spring
Page Views: 598
Submitted By: phil wortmann on Feb 5, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Struggling with the Mhard variash to the 3rd pitch...

Description 

I decided to add this to the data base, because it's just too good a line to be so obscure. I find myself recommending this one to local climbers, then I proceed to give them horrible beta that leaves them more confused about the route's whereabouts than when I started.

Blind Assumption can be very thin in the fall, causing a high number of folks to bail after the first pitch. If that's ever the case, Blind Luck is a great way to salvage that day and tick off a damn good route.

P1. WI3. Follow the first pitch of Blind Assumption, but stop short below the huge chockstone instead of belaying at the fixed gear, 100 feet.

P2. M5 WI4. Find the finger crack on to the right and follow it left of the chockstone, then right through the tunnel and set a belay at a good stance, 60 feet.

Climb a short pitch to the belay ledge near the base of BA's pitch 3, and move the belay there.

P3. Find a small crack on the far left side of the ledge that leads up to a dark cave. Pull around the right of the cave with great gear, and continue through wide crack to a solid ledge. Belay in the corner, 50 feet.

P3 alternative. Pull the obvious roof crack to an extremely hard mantle. It's very hard to find or place gear once you're up there, so go hard! It is hard to rate this, maybe M9? I was climbing M8 fairly well when I did this, and I thought I was going to blow a hernia doing it. Wellborn said it was M8+, but he's a man among men....

P4. M4/5. Climb the beauty of a dihedral, exiting right at the end of the corner system, and belay at a ledge at the top. This pitch is great! 120 feet.

P5. M4. Climb a short pitch to the top of the technical difficulties. Stay far left, the obvious crack ahead of you is awkward and hard to protect. When in doubt, go left, 50 feet.

Walk off right, crossing the tops of BA and TA, and continue to the highway. Or, rap down BA with two ropes.

We've done several other routes on the Corinthian Column and in the area, and maybe someday we'll get around to posting them. Toga Party, Lost 'N' Found, etc., hit me up if you want a topo or beta until then. I'd like to get back up there as soon as the road clears up and Wellborn and Noah get back to the Springs.... Where y'all at, fellas?

Cheers.


Location 

This one weaves around Blind Assumption, on the left side of the Corinthian Column.


Protection 

Single rack, handful o' screws. Some iron is always helpful.



Photos of Blind Luck Slideshow Add Photo
Crux roof.
Crux roof.
Jason Maki on the 3rd pitch. I think I heard this was his first mixed route? Good start if so.
Jason Maki on the 3rd pitch. I think I heard this ...
Pete Lardy on P2, under the chockstone.
BETA PHOTO: Pete Lardy on P2, under the chockstone.
The pink corner of P4. Nice edges, takes great gear. <br /> <br />Photo by the Wellborn.
BETA PHOTO: The pink corner of P4. Nice edges, takes great gea...
Topo.
BETA PHOTO: Topo.
"YOU BOYS LIKE MEXICO?!?!" <br />Jay Karst and Noah McKelvin having too much fun on the 2nd ascent. Erik and I had just finished the FA of the Ol' 6 and walked over to heckle. Good day on the Peak.
"YOU BOYS LIKE MEXICO?!?!"
Jay Karst and Noah McKe...
Comments on Blind Luck Add Comment
Show which comments
By Noah8000
From: Vail, CO
Feb 11, 2014
rating: WI4 M8+

This is an AMAZING route. It's like Vail drytooling in the alpine...at least the first pitch. I recommend the roof variation (FA line). It's not often you get HARD drytooling at 13,000+ ft. If it were in Vail, it would be comparable if not harder then P1 of Red Bull and Vodka. The alpine version of it. It doesn't look hard...but it is.... Bring a specter. As after the roof, that's your next piece before a 0.5. Don't fall at that point. Well worth it! As good as the Ole #6!

By erik wellborn
From: manitou springs
Feb 23, 2014

Quality. A great variation if BA is dry or looking for something a bit more challenging.