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Routes in Winter Wall
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Basalt Therapy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Blind Faith S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Bosch Hogg S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Clean Energy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Gopher Broke S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Grape Ape S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Hellboy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Highly Caffeinated T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Highway to Hell T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Naked Lunch S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Old Sling T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Old Sling Straightened T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Original Face Route S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pale Face S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Post Moderate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Protein Supplement S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Roid Boys S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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SOL Man (aka Not In the End) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sunbaked S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Trough, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Vitaman T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Xibalba S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 115 ft (35 m) |
| FA: | Mark Thomas, with Tom Wezwick, Karl Kiser, and Chris Kessler. Fall 1999. |
| Page Views: | 3,841 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Jason Halladay on Dec 2, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands
Details
Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Description
A sustained, lengthy route tackling a series of roofs to a final exposed crux move from a face over one last roof. Mostly 5.10+ until the last moves. Final hard move can be avoided by going right at the last bolt.
Location
This is the bolted face/arete with a number of roofs just to the right of Original Face Route. It's climb number 9 in the Winter Wall beta photo.
Protection
16 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor (not 13 as stated in one of the guides)
Long draws on the bolts under the roofs are nice to minimize rope drag but aren't required.
Bring a second rope for the descent. If you only have one rope, you could get down by rapping first to the Original Face Route anchors (annoying to do, though, and there are loose rocks you could kick off), and then down from there. Two ropes are better. Or a single 80m rope. A single 70m rope with stretch reportedly works but definitely tie knots in the ends.
Long draws on the bolts under the roofs are nice to minimize rope drag but aren't required.
Bring a second rope for the descent. If you only have one rope, you could get down by rapping first to the Original Face Route anchors (annoying to do, though, and there are loose rocks you could kick off), and then down from there. Two ropes are better. Or a single 80m rope. A single 70m rope with stretch reportedly works but definitely tie knots in the ends.
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