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This line follows the left-leaning blunt arete on the right side of the Gothodrome, and is a highly visible feature, easily distinguished from the main trail down in Hadley Gulch. It follows a line of black and silver Metolius hangers on the right side of the arete. A nice face route could be bolted to the right, in the blue/black water streaks.
Step off a kind of heap of loose blocks into a corner feature, lay it back, and stretch high and right for the first clip. Traverse across onto the face and into the base of a faint groove and clip a second bolt. Take care with the protruding block/blob just above this bolt.
Climb the groove to its end, a few bolts higher (5.12a). From here, 30 feet of sustained business up the arete, sometimes changing sides, leads you to a decent flat hold on the gold-colored face and a shake-out. 5.11+ pocket/hueco climbing leads to the anchors, another 40 or 50 feet higher, over the lip of a little roof. You could also use this route to access the top of the Fortress.
The moves on this one are great, the rock bomber. It just needs some traffic to get the dust off, so bring a toothbrush with you.
12-14 quickdraws and a 60-meter rope (mandatory).
|By chris righter|
May 4, 2008
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c
Way, way, way dirty...good mid section, then super dirty to anchors. Worth the adventure.