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 ADVANCED
Practice Rock
Select Route:
5.6 Crack T 
Blind Black Babies T,S 
Cardiac Bypass T,S 
Fiver, The T 
Jerry's Route T 
Jerry's Variation T 
Last of the Wild Ones Variation T,S 
Pinnacle Dihedral T 
Pinnacle Standard T 
Rosebush Crack T 
Silent Rock T,S 
Slanting Dihedral T 
Spiral, The T 
Strawberry Crack T 
Theoretically T,TR 
Tough Trip Through Paradise T,S 
Wide Crack T 
Wizards Well T 

Blind Black Babies 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: FRA: Clark Alexis, Fall 1989
Season: Spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 1,149
Submitted By: S. Stember on Sep 16, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Potential road closures in winter. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb the mixed line of bolts, while placing a couple cams along the way. Start off with two cams, followed by a .5 camalot. Just before the second bolt place a small C3 or alien, reach up high and clip the bolt. After this, boldly move upwards on easier terrain with no pro for a good little jaunt.

Location 

This is the very first set of routes you see when you approach the crag. Walk a short distance to the right when the approach trail comes to a "T" and you must choose right or left. Blind Black Babies is the rightmost route and has the 2 obvious bolts.

Protection 

5-6 draws, some trad some sport
small cams
no nuts
material for the anchor


Comments on Blind Black Babies Add Comment
Show which comments
By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
Sep 18, 2008

Probably want 5-6 draws plus material for anchor, not 3 draws.
By Justin Marlen
From: Bozeman, MT
Mar 31, 2009

I think there are only two bolts nowadays, one right off the ground, and another protecting the bulge.
By Bud Martin
From: Bozeman, MT
Sep 21, 2010

Yes, two bolts and a purple TCU works well to protect before the second bolt.
By B-Mkll
From: Bozeman, MT
Jun 5, 2014

2 bolts. One at first bulge, one at second. There is a decent .5 or blue TCU placement on the slab before the second bulge, and a great yellow TCU placement at about 3/4 height. This was all that felt necessary protection-wise, but there are certainly other placements to be had.

4 draws (2 for bolts, 2 for anchors) are all that are necessary. The cam placements are close enough to the natural line that they probably don't even need extension.

Huge moves between even bigger jugs. Felt super safe and fun, almost like climbing in a gym. Good chain anchors with rap rings.

One of the best .9 single pitches I've ever been on.

Have fun!