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Chimney Rock - East Face
Routes Sorted
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Blind Ambition T 
Flue, Right, The T 
Flue, The T 
Raven's Reach T 

Blind Ambition 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob Gaines & Alan Bartlett, October 1999
Page Views: 912
Submitted By: M.Morley on Apr 24, 2004

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blind ambition

Description 

This fun route lies on the east face (backside) of Chimney Rock a short ways to the right of The Flue (5.8). It sports 4 good protection bolts with supplemental protection in a series of horizontal cracks.

Not to be confused with "Flue Right" (5.10b R/X).

Fun and delicate face climbing leads to a 2 bolt rap anchor (shared with The Flue).

Protection 

4 bolts, gear to 2", bolted anchor/rap (same as for The Flue).


Photos of Blind Ambition Slideshow Add Photo
Blind Ambition
BETA PHOTO: Blind Ambition
Blind Ambition (5.11a), Joshua Tree NP
Blind Ambition (5.11a), Joshua Tree NP

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By Murf
Apr 26, 2004
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Found in Bartlett's Hidden Valley Climb w/2001 Supplement, page 120. Its noted as 5.11a, but I thought 5.10d was fair.
By Benjamin
Aug 16, 2005
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This contrived line seems harder than 10d, though it IS REALLY FUN. In keeping with josh tradition in the grade, but not the pro. Bolt'em up Bob!
By Joe Brophy
From: San Diego
Sep 26, 2005
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

A good line with the crux moving from the 2nd to the 3rd bolt. Good balance and foot work will see you through this section. Fell off the crux like 5x. I can't say how it would be falling on lead through this section since I have the security of a T.R.
By Randy
Sep 28, 2005
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

An OK route, but contrived in the sense that from the 3rd bolt, you move far off right onto easy ground before heading back left to finish up the nice headwall. In fact, the 3rd bolt placement is pretty contrived as the only reason you don't traverse off right sooner (and avoid the hardest moves) is because you have to clip the bolt.
By Bob Gaines
Oct 3, 2005
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

If you climb directly past the third bolt, it's probably 11a/b to lead it. If toproping, you can do a nice 10a route if you climb the initial finger crack of Raven's Reach, then move left onto the slab above the third bolt of Blind Ambition to the upper section of Blind Ambition.
By C Miller
Administrator
Oct 15, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Kudos to Bob for finding this gem so close to Hidden Valley CG. The crux is perhaps a bit contrived, but the quality of the moves and the enjoyable upper portion of the route makes it easy to overlook this fact.

Step off a flake at the base, clip a bolt (use a long draw or a sling) and then work along a dike to a horizontal crack (gear) before railing right to reach the 2nd bolt. Getting to the 3rd bolt (a long draw or sling advised) is the crux, so take a cue from the name of the route as the sequence is balancy and inobvious (hint: stay slightly right of the bolt) and involves a lengthy reach to the good hold you'll need. Once past the crux a short section of easy slab leads to horizontals and then a brief sequence of fun moves past the 4th bolt (5.10-) before ending with a short crack onto a ledge with anchors. Some additional beta: due to the sloping nature of the holds at the crux it's probably best to do this in the shade, on a cool day or both.

This is a tough route to onsite as the crux is a devious and improbable sequence. Pretty hard to call this 5.10d, but after dialing the moves I could see calling it 5.10c - now how's that for a sandbag!
By JJ Armstrong
May 1, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This route in my opinion is definately 5.11a, especially if you go straight up. I can see someone down grading it only after rehersing it on top rope then leading it, or scoping out the moves on repell . A true onsite of this line deserves a pat on the back.
By RTM
Oct 25, 2009

I thought the line was obvious and not contrived at all. Bob followed the line of the best climbing. I suppose its possible to 'escape' to the right after the 3rd bolt, but one could also just hike up the backside of the rock to get to the top.
By Brian Chastain
Feb 4, 2013
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I thought it was 11a/b for sure if you go straight up the line past bolt 2 and 3. You could knock a letter off for each foot out right you went. Great climb.