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Oni 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Steve Bleyl
Page Views: 153
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Oct 2, 2013

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Just below the crux on Oni.
Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

An improbable-looking line that is quite a fun outing.

Good pockets and edges down low followed by a sudden dearth of human-usable holds after the fifth bolt.

Figure out how to get up past the seeming blankness and from thence past the sixth bolt. If you're still attached to the wall at this point fight the pump and head to the last bolt, and then up and slightly left to the chains.

There is a second pitch above and left of the chains. The first bolt is probably 15 feet left and eight or ten feet from the chains. (Or link as one pitch, but the rope drag looks horrendous.)


Location 

On the east-facing wall that is around to the right (north) outside corner from where the trail initially meets the wall. The routes start on a ledge. Scramble up near the right side of the ledge.

This route is the 3rd from the left. A double-chain belay/rappel anchor is at head height on the wall. This route leads up and right from that anchor.


Protection 

7 bolts to the first chain anchors. There is a fixed draw at bolt 6.

Another pitch with several fixed draws above.



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By KipHenrie
From: centerville, utah
May 30, 2014
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

This area is so beautiful. Off the deck and amazing AF. First 4-5 bolts are easy then you get a little rest before launching thru the crux at the fixed draw. Its very balancy with small feet and sharp hands trending right thru more nasty holds then you are rewarded with some nice jugs then more crimpiness to the chains. I liked this climb because it wandered around, it wasn't just straight up. Short and sweet.