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Chocolate Factory
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Andy Man Can, The 
Augustus Gloop 
Babinski sign  
Ball Nuts and Brassies (Aka Broken Ankles) 
Bleak December 
Cat's Demise 
Chocolate River 
Easy Pickins 
For Your Health 
Gene Wilder 
Glass Elevator, The 
Golden Ticket 
Hip to the Jive 
J Rat's Back 
Mike Teavee 
Mr. P. 
One Side Makes You Taller 
Pure Imagination 
robotic thumb 
Sugar Rush 
Swedish Fish 
Team Tough on Tour 
Throbbing Emotions 
Through the Looking Glass 
Willy Wonka 
Unsorted Routes:

Bleak December 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Andy Mann
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 674
Submitted By: Andrew Mann on Dec 11, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: The wall. The route. There is an unlabeled route...

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An awesome, a-typical RRG route following a gorgeous slightly overhanging brown/gold streak. Just enough usable holds, at a choice angle, make for good movement the whole way. Very crimpy.

Start by following 2 bolts of a left arching crack until it peters out. Bust the crux move off small, sharp crimps, clip, and make some more long moves on small holds to a flat jug. Crux over. Steller face climbing leads past small plates and pockets to a spicy and sequential shakedown at the anchors.

Grade is my best estimate and with a grain of salt...


Currently this is the route to the right of Cat's Demise (13b) on the far left side of the Chocolate Factory proper.

From Wobbler & Malice: Walk the cliff down into a gully and back up to a large orange wall defined by a crack leading form a huge 10 foot hueco. Follow the trail left about 100 feet and up to a large ivy grown wall with 2 clean gold streaks on the right. Bleak December is the left of the two routes. I believe the route in the streak 20 feet to the right is called "Dainty Butterfly" 12b - but I could be mistaken.

Fastest approach: You can take a left fork off the approach trail to Oompa and Loompa. Look for the uphill overgrown logging road about 40 feet after hopping over the small creek - approx 150 yards from the road. Follow a few minutes and look for the wall in the description photo up on your left (north facing).


6 bolts and anchors.

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By Andrew Mann
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 20, 2012

As suspected, some of the tiny crimps have broken away in the lower crux. No worries, a better route for it. Consensus by the end of this season is at solid 5.12b, which I had a sneaky feeling it was to begin with. Climb on.

By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Jun 18, 2013

This is one of the best pages I have seen for a low end 5.12 on the site. Well done Andrew!