An awesome, a-typical RRG route following a gorgeous slightly overhanging brown/gold streak. Just enough usable holds, at a choice angle, make for good movement the whole way. Very crimpy.
Start by following 2 bolts of a left arching crack until it peters out. Bust the crux move off small, sharp crimps, clip, and make some more long moves on small holds to a flat jug. Crux over. Steller face climbing leads past small plates and pockets to a spicy and sequential shakedown at the anchors.
Grade is my best estimate and with a grain of salt...
Currently this is the route to the right of Cat's Demise (13b) on the far left side of the Chocolate Factory proper.
From Wobbler & Malice: Walk the cliff down into a gully and back up to a large orange wall defined by a crack leading form a huge 10 foot hueco. Follow the trail left about 100 feet and up to a large ivy grown wall with 2 clean gold streaks on the right. Bleak December is the left of the two routes. I believe the route in the streak 20 feet to the right is called "Dainty Butterfly" 12b - but I could be mistaken.
Fastest approach: You can take a left fork off the approach trail to Oompa and Loompa. Look for the uphill overgrown logging road about 40 feet after hopping over the small creek - approx 150 yards from the road. Follow a few minutes and look for the wall in the description photo up on your left (north facing).
6 bolts and anchors.
|By Andrew Mann|
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 20, 2012
As suspected, some of the tiny crimps have broken away in the lower crux. No worries, a better route for it. Consensus by the end of this season is at solid 5.12b, which I had a sneaky feeling it was to begin with. Climb on.
|By skinny legs and all|
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Jun 18, 2013
This is one of the best pages I have seen for a low end 5.12 on the site. Well done Andrew!