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The banner route of the area. The route begins, and continually flirts with, the right edge of the giant recess in the wall that separates the meteorit and chaltbach sectors of cheselenflue. As with all routes in the chaltbach sector, the "blue beetle" offers prime-time exposure on steep, solid rock with good holds.
Pitch 1: 5c, follows a steep corner on good holds.
Pitch 2: 6a, traverses up and left, to the edge of the giant recess in the wall... and across it into very exposed territory towards the anchor.
Pitch 3: 6a+, the crux of the route, this pitch fires out and up through slightly overhanging territory. The holds are all very good, but it gets a bit pumpy until the angle eases off towards the end.
Pitch 4: 6a, short but sweet, this pitch takes off from a comfortable ledge, heading straight up and through a small overhang, followed by a bit more corner climbing, again with good holds all the way.
Pitch 5: 6a+, a splendid pitch, traversing left and up on an exposed face underneath a monster roof, again flirting with the edge of the giant recess in the wall. The anchor is at the leftmost edge of the face, in a very exposed position.
Pitch 6: 6a, a very short (10 meter) pitch up a corner to the left of the monster roof. This pitch is not particularly worthwhile: short, not particularly aesthetic, and sometimes moist.
Tip: the route is steep enough and sheltered enough to stay dry when its raining (except for the last pitch).
Pass by the meteorit sector and traverse up and to the right past a giant recess in the wall (there is often a waterfall here). Follow a clear trail up to the base of the rock. The start of the climb is marked with a blue beetle.
With regards to the abseil descent, take note of the comments to the area!
The route is very well bolted. No complementary protection is required.
More abseiling fun
Pitch two - Daniele H coming up to the anchor.
Daniele H, coming in to the second abseil anchor
Pitch three - my man Bill Flaherty, having just pu...
Pitch five, on a soupy day
Daniele H on the last abseil.
The way down...
3rd abseil, down the fixed rope
|By Dan Flynn|
Oct 16, 2011
Can link P5 + 6 for a longer, funner finish. Definitely have some rope drag, but the 10m extra are quite different character and I think really worth it. 50m ropes ok.