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 ADVANCED
The Dark Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
27 Tons S 
Animatronic S 
Asym S 
Audition, The S 
Beginner's Outing S 
Black 'N Dicey S 
Black Awareness S 
Black Dihedral T 
Blank Frank S 
Bonnie S 
Call From Overseas S 
Clyde S 
Corner Pockets S 
Counter Balance S 
Crack Happens S 
Crack's On Top, The S 
Crown of Thorns aka Box Lunch aka Lou Raven's Rest S 
Dark Side Roofs S 
Eagle has Landed, The S 
Eat, Drink, and Beat Larry S 
Edge Of Fright S 
El Guapo S 
Enchanted Porkfist S 
Face The Music S 
Fat Like Butta S 
Fight or Flight T 
Fragile S 
Go East, Old Man S 
Hangers Regained S 
I Scare Myself T,S 
Kashmere S 
Kinesthesia S 
Levels of the Game S 
Line of Strength S 
Lumina S 
Mannequin S 
Missing Hangers S 
Muted by Reality S 
Plum, The S 
Porkus Procurement S 
Puddle Of Holes S 
Punjabi S 
Redlined S 
Rip It S 
Route Fluffer S 
Shelf Road Virgin S 
Stink Finger S 
Stuck in the Middle With You S 
Suspender Man S 
Teenage Wristband S 
Thank Heaven for Little Girls S 
Trolling For Holds S 
Two Hearts S 
U Pump It S 
Unknown S 
Viaggro S 
Void Lloyd S 
Way We Were, The T 
Welcoming, The S 
Whisper To A Scream S 

Blank Frank 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,168
Submitted By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn on Dec 27, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO

Description 

The Dark Side is the "technicians choice" of Shelf. Vertical to barely slabbing (don't judge these routes' steepness by how they look from the trail), these routes inspire the ballet dancer in all who attempt the climbs here!

Blank Frank is a great dance up one of the best faces in the Dark Side. A few moves up less then perfect rock soon gain the long, very sustained crux on small crimps and side-pulls to a great rest ledge below the final roof-bulge. A devious sequence on monos and underclings gets you over the roof and to the anchors.

Protection 

8 bolts + anchors.


Photos of Blank Frank Slideshow Add Photo
Adam Sinner making it look casual while giving us ...
Adam Sinner making it look casual while giving us ...

Comments on Blank Frank Add Comment
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By Jesse Ryan
Apr 29, 2002

Excellent route! Great battle through the pump and sequences all the way to the anchors. Rock quality is only a bit lower near bottom, and didn't detract from my experience. A must do, three stars IMHO.
By Joe Collins
Jun 1, 2004

Best route I've done on the Dark Side. I thought the crux was the mono/undercling sequence near the top.