2014 Update: The U.S. Forest Service has reopened Eagle Rock and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon which have been closed since Feb. 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season. Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress areas remain CLOSED.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
This route begins on the far east side of Animal World Rock. Follow the trail around the rock to the far east side of the cliff. Locate two bolts on a steep short face.
Pitch One: Climb past the bolts with hard, tricky moves on devious holds. Gain a ledge and move past the third and fourth bolts to the belay ledge.
Pitch Two: Climb up a shallow corner past bolts tending to the left at the top of the corner. Place some gear and gain a ledge below a blank-looking, blunt arete. Crank up the arete on small, insecure holds (crux) climbing to the anchor.
Rap the route to the ground.
Four bolts on the first pitch and six bolts plus some small-to-medium gear on the second pitch.
Comments on Blame it on a Rush of Blood to the Head
Does anyone know where this route is? How far right of New Beginnings?
By Mike Munger From: Boulder, Colorado Jul 15, 2004 rating: 5.11c6c+24VIII-24E4 6a
From Global Gorilla if you go right , into the forest and follow the path of least resistance (there is no trail and some bush-whacking is needed) or follow the cliff up for an equally adventurous approach. Find this route starting on the left wall of an overgrown gully with a nice rock for your belayer to sit on and a tree anchor. You might want to bring a stick-clip or some gear to protect the move up to the first bolt. The second pitch doesn't really require any gear but the bolt at the crux is difficult to clip if you are under six + feet tall (I recommend a stiffy). Also bring a wire brush and goggles.