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Routes in Land of the Rising Moon
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Analog V8-9 7B+ |
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Blade Runner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Chitty Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Colorado Cable Cutter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cross of Iron T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Digital (aka Sector 54?) V6 7A |
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Drain Pipe T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Drainpipe Left Exit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Make A Dead Man Cum T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Master of Sport T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Moonrise Variation (Moontide?) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Moontide T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Straight and Narrow T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Turtle Rock Summit Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Paul Piana, Barbara Devine, Kevin Bein, 1982 |
| Page Views: | 4,065 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | nolteboy on Sep 16, 2005 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Description
This route is a Vedauwoo classic. Instead of the typical, blue-collar thuggery required by most climbs at the Voo, this one is more balancy and touchy-feely stuff. Two distinct cruxes will be encountered. The first is a thin lieback past two fixed nuts (the second of which, a wedged copperhead, looks to be the better of the two) about 10 or 12 feet off the deck. Jam and lieback the thin crack above to a great no-hands rest, then finagle your way up to where the crack starts to close down. Place gear and commit to the thin, spooky moves up to and past a tiny copperhead pasted into the seam. A committing, but not too difficult, mantel follows, at which point you can place a hand-sized cam and regain your wits. Twenty feet of low fifth class up the corner leads to a belay (gear in crack on left or sling giant blocks on right) - there is no fixed anchor.
Descend by scrambling up and to the right, then down the rubble-filled gully- pretty casual descent.
Descend by scrambling up and to the right, then down the rubble-filled gully- pretty casual descent.
Location
If facing Straight and Narrow, head downhill to the left, passing MOON TIDE and then a rubble-filled gully. Stay to the right, up and over some boulders, and you'll see BLADE RUNNER straight ahead- a clean, less-than-vertical dihedral with a very thin crack.
Descent
Per Jeff G: There are new bolts with rings on top. A single 50 meter rope will get you back down.
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