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Land of the Rising Moon
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Unsorted Routes:

Blade Runner 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: P. Piana, B. Devine, K. Bein, 1982
Page Views: 2,175
Submitted By: nolteboy on Sep 17, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Rob Kepley sending Blade Runner with "pumphou...

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Description 

If facing Straight and Narrow, head downhill to the left, passing MOON TIDE and then a rubble-filled gully. Stay to the right, up and over some boulders, and you'll see BLADE RUNNER straight ahead- a clean, less-than-vertical dihedral with a very thin crack.

This route is a Vedauwoo classic. Instead of the typical, blue-collar thuggery required by most climbs at the Voo, this one is more balancy and touchy-feely stuff. Two distinct cruxes will be encountered. The first is a thin lieback past two fixed nuts (the second of which, a wedged copperhead, looks to be the better of the two) about 10 or 12 feet off the deck. Jam and lieback the thin crack above to a great no-hands rest, then finagle your way up to where the crack starts to close down. Place gear and commit to the thin, spooky moves up to and past a tiny copperhead pasted into the seam. A committing, but not too difficult, mantle follows, at which point you can place a hand-sized cam and regain your wits. Twenty feet of low fifth class up the corner leads to a belay (gear in crack on left or sling giant blocks on right) - there is no fixed anchor.

Descend by scrambling up and to the right, then down the rubble-filled gully- pretty casual descent.

Protection 

Mostly nuts (all sizes) and smallish cams. A couple of hand-sized pieces.

Descent 

Per Jeff G.: There are new bolts with rings on top. A single 50 meter rope will get you back down.


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By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
Jun 29, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

There are new bolts with rings on top. A single 50 meter rope will get you back down.

edited to add: I didn't place the bolts. I don't know who did, I'm just reporting the facts.
By Justin Edl
Nov 10, 2007

I agree John. If I remember correctly, there was a good gear anchor and an casual walkoff which deposits you nearly at the base of the climb. As a result, I think the bolts on this are not necessary.