|Land of the Rising Moon
If facing Straight and Narrow, head downhill to the left, passing MOON TIDE and then a rubble-filled gully. Stay to the right, up and over some boulders, and you'll see BLADE RUNNER straight ahead- a clean, less-than-vertical dihedral with a very thin crack.
This route is a Vedauwoo classic. Instead of the typical, blue-collar thuggery required by most climbs at the Voo, this one is more balancy and touchy-feely stuff. Two distinct cruxes will be encountered. The first is a thin lieback past two fixed nuts (the second of which, a wedged copperhead, looks to be the better of the two) about 10 or 12 feet off the deck. Jam and lieback the thin crack above to a great no-hands rest, then finagle your way up to where the crack starts to close down. Place gear and commit to the thin, spooky moves up to and past a tiny copperhead pasted into the seam. A committing, but not too difficult, mantle follows, at which point you can place a hand-sized cam and regain your wits. Twenty feet of low fifth class up the corner leads to a belay (gear in crack on left or sling giant blocks on right) - there is no fixed anchor.
Descend by scrambling up and to the right, then down the rubble-filled gully- pretty casual descent.
Mostly nuts (all sizes) and smallish cams. A couple of hand-sized pieces.
Per Jeff G.: There are new bolts with rings on top. A single 50 meter rope will get you back down.
|By Jeff G.|
From: Fort Collins
Jun 29, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
There are new bolts with rings on top. A single 50 meter rope will get you back down.
edited to add: I didn't place the bolts. I don't know who did, I'm just reporting the facts.
|By Justin Edl|
Nov 10, 2007
I agree John. If I remember correctly, there was a good gear anchor and an casual walkoff which deposits you nearly at the base of the climb. As a result, I think the bolts on this are not necessary.