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Lilly Bluff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alien S 
Aneurism S 
Blade Loafer T,S 
Body Hammer S 
Borderline S 
Clyde the Mega Dude S 
Dinosaur Jr. S 
Dirty Deeds S 
Done Dirt Cheep S 
Egyptian S 
Electric Chair S 
Electric Sky S 
Gangsta S 
Heresy S 
Ivy League S 
La Familia S 
Lounge Lizard S 
Mixed Nuts T,S 
Motion Sickness S 
NC Sport Climber T 
Osiris S 
Paraphernalia S 
Piggy T 
Poison Ivy S 
Rocking Chair T,S 
Tarantella S 
Ticks Are For Kids S 
Unga Bunga T 
Wheatward Bound S 
Whipper Snapper S 
Yakuza S 
Unsorted Routes:

Blade Loafer 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Stan Wallace, 1979 (on gear)
Page Views: 800
Submitted By: Chuck Parks on May 19, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Dixie Cragger's gives this route two stars, but I think the public disagrees. We found it covered with lovely, green algae. I don't think it sees much traffic.

Romp up the steep start with good jams and locks. Locate and admire the ergonomically superior three-finger pocket on the face. Grunt through the slippery, hopeless upper section of crack toward victory.


Toward the right end of Lilly Bluff. Look for a steep, bolted(!) hand crack that leads up through a slot/dihedral.


sport: 5 bolts, anchors out right
trad: standard rack, maybe a #4 Camalot C4 for the upper crack section? Be wary of cam placements in the crack, as parts of it are SLIPPERY.

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By jarthur
From: Westminster, CO
Mar 13, 2010

Really green algae? I've climbed this route many times when some of the other routes are occupied. A very unique climb with a fun overhanging lieback finish. I've never seen any vegetation on this route, just might have been a very wet year to find green algae on it.
By Jeff Edge
Aug 18, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Kelly Brown's guide lists this is 10c which seems about right but I mean it's one grade who cares anyway. Usually has a good bit of chalk on it whenever I pass by, some parts do stay pretty slick and green though (non-crucial parts) but that's just because it's in a wet area not because it isn't popular.
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