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Lilly Bluff
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Blade Loafer 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type: Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Stan Wallace, 1979 (on gear)
Page Views: 684
Submitted By: Chuck Parks on May 19, 2008
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Description 

Dixie Cragger's gives this route two stars, but I think the public disagrees. We found it covered with lovely, green algae. I don't think it sees much traffic.

Romp up the steep start with good jams and locks. Locate and admire the ergonomically superior three-finger pocket on the face. Grunt through the slippery, hopeless upper section of crack toward victory.


Location 

Toward the right end of Lilly Bluff. Look for a steep, bolted(!) hand crack that leads up through a slot/dihedral.


Protection 

sport: 5 bolts, anchors out right
trad: standard rack, maybe a #4 Camalot C4 for the upper crack section? Be wary of cam placements in the crack, as parts of it are SLIPPERY.



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By jarthur
From: Westminster, CO
Mar 13, 2010

Really green algae? I've climbed this route many times when some of the other routes are occupied. A very unique climb with a fun overhanging lieback finish. I've never seen any vegetation on this route, just might have been a very wet year to find green algae on it.

By Jeff Edge
Aug 18, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Kelly Brown's guide lists this is 10c which seems about right but I mean it's one grade who cares anyway. Usually has a good bit of chalk on it whenever I pass by, some parts do stay pretty slick and green though (non-crucial parts) but that's just because it's in a wet area not because it isn't popular.