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Routes in Lower Beer Wall
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Afternoon Delight T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Another Beer Walls Black Streak T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Anteater T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Backs against the Wall T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Blacksmith T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Clutch and Cruise T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Coors Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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CWI T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Detoxification T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Diagonal Chockstone Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Dos T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Draught Dodger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Equis T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Joey Baggadonuts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lichenbrau T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Miller Light S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Octoberfast T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pat Tricks T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pats' Blue Ribbon S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Pegasus T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Redrum T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Rockaholic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Supercharged T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sword T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Turbocharge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wandering Lunatic S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 140 ft (42 m) |
| FA: | Patrick Purcell and Bob Martin - 1992 |
| Page Views: | 5,588 total · 33/month |
| Shared By: | Greg Kuchyt on May 18, 2010 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
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Description
General: Blacksmith offers a fairly sustained section of gear protected face climbing on great rock with great movements. If you're comfortable at this grade of face climbing, don't miss this route!
Pitch 1 (5.10a): Take the line of weakness up the face passing the small tree ~6' up and head up between the hanging cedar on your right and the small vegetation on your left. Climb past many horizontals (protection), past an overlap, until the first bolt appears. Climb to a stance and a small placement and then lock in to find the line and make committing moves (crux) to gain the first bolt. Continue up following the weakness in the face to a piton, a second bolt and a second piton to a welcomed stance below the left side of the roof. From here either find the right-most of two left-to-right finger cracks and make an unexpected hard move to gain the finger crack and follow easier rock to the top. Alternatively, head straight up from the stance (bearing slightly left) to the roof and traverse to the bolt and then past it pulling the roof on the edges formed by a right-rising thin seam/crack (5.10c). Head up on easier rock albeit somewhat spare on protection.
Pitch 1 (5.10a): Take the line of weakness up the face passing the small tree ~6' up and head up between the hanging cedar on your right and the small vegetation on your left. Climb past many horizontals (protection), past an overlap, until the first bolt appears. Climb to a stance and a small placement and then lock in to find the line and make committing moves (crux) to gain the first bolt. Continue up following the weakness in the face to a piton, a second bolt and a second piton to a welcomed stance below the left side of the roof. From here either find the right-most of two left-to-right finger cracks and make an unexpected hard move to gain the finger crack and follow easier rock to the top. Alternatively, head straight up from the stance (bearing slightly left) to the roof and traverse to the bolt and then past it pulling the roof on the edges formed by a right-rising thin seam/crack (5.10c). Head up on easier rock albeit somewhat spare on protection.
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